More information is needed to answer this. We need the ballast and bulb type. If this ballast is not made to do what you want then it should not be done. It can cause damage to the ballast and cause fire.
You don't. Each four foot two lamp fixture needs its own ballast. To operate the three fixtures from one power source, the three ballasts are wired in parallel with each other. The three black ballast wires are all connected together with the incoming black wire from the voltage source. The same with the three white ballast wires. They are connected together with the white neutral wire from the voltage source cable. When the voltage is applied to the circuit all three fixtures will light.
Yes and no. It can run without a starter, but it can't start. The starter stores energy and releases it all at once, causing a higher voltage. The gas in the tube has a higher resistance when not lit, so it takes more voltage to start it glowing. Once it is glowing, the resistance is lower, so it can run without a starter.
Shut off the breaker that supplies the voltage to the fluorescent fixture. Wire the new pull chain switch in series with the black incoming wire and the black wire of the ballast. Turn the breaker back on and your switch will now control the off on operation of the light fixture.
They can, but you need to have a motion sensor/system made for them. They require a ballast to get them to start (in most cases) and don't turn on instantly, making them a poor choice for most security applications. A motion sensor is just a switch so you should have no trouble with fluorescent lights. Older tubes sometimes take longer to fire, try relamping. If the fixture is outside and cold this has a major factor on operation. For outside fluorescent fixtures in real cold climate you need a zero degree ballast. The new electronic ballast are the best as they operate in all kind of temperatures.
There should be a black & white wire coming from the light. Hook black to black and white to white. Then connect the ground wire to the light chassis. You need 12/2 with ground for the circuit. You do not need a light fixture box for these type lights.
No. Most light fixtures are designed to be mounted on electrical boxes which are fixed to the building frame work. Mounting the fixture without a box leaves the connection open on one side to a combustible surface. If a problem arises with the connection and heat is generated a fire could start. A surface mounted fluorescent is allowed to be mounted without a box. This is because the connection to the ballast is made inside the metal enclosure of the fixture.
Connect them in parallel. The black wire from the ballast to the black line wire. The white wire from the ballast to the line neutral. Connect the ground wire to the ground screw which is located in the body of the fixture. Grounding of the fixtures is essential.
If you mean the ballast in a fluorescent light fitting where the ballast is wired in series with the tube, the answer is "No". Explanation: If no tube is in place, the light fitting's circuit is "open" so there is nothing to take any current from the "hot" supply wire and return it to the "neutral" wire.
It sounds like you are describing either a slimline or dc recessed base type of fluorescent fixture. There is a wiring diagram on the ballast of both of these types of fixtures. Do your wiring the same as what is shown and you will have no problem.
The terminology T8 suggests to me that the fixture is a fluorescent fixture. These types of tube fixtures need a ballast to make the tubes ignite. If you are trying to operate this type of fixture on 220 volts, you will need a ballast that requires a 240 volts input voltage source.
most likely from all of the electricity flowing through them. Incandescent lights do not buzz. Fluorescent fixtures with a non electronic ballast can develop a buzzing or humming noise. The ballast has a wire coiled around an iron laminated core. As the ballast ages the laminations start to separate and the alternating current going through the ballast makes the iron layers vibrate (hitting each other) causing the hum or buzz sound.
Actually, many components do not have or need a neutral. 3-phase equipment such as motors, heaters and the like do not use a neutral. Some older 240V electric clothes dryers (in the US) did not have a neutral. The 2.5 ton, 240V airconditioner on my roof doesn't use a neutral either. Fluorescent fixtures do however, as you note, need a neutral. The two power wires coming out of the ballast are usually a black and a white wire in the US, the white wire is the neutral. On older fixtures with a separate starter, the white wire (neutral) may not go to the ballast. Instead it goes to the tube socket. It's still white, though. Note that many of the current rapid-start fixtures also need a grounded reflector to reliably start. These fixtures will require a hot, neutral AND ground conductor, properly connected, to work.
A compact fluorescent light (CFL) is a fluorescent light that is manufactured in the approximate size and shape of a standard incandescent lamp. It's got an electronic ballast (unlike the standard fluorescent lamp tube which uses a heavy wire wound ballast), and it screws into a socket and performs on the standard line voltage like that aforementioned incandescent lamp. The light emitting diode (LED) is a solid state device that converts electricity into light without heating a filament like the incandescent lamp, or ionizing a gas like the fluorescent light does.
A compact fluorescent light (CFL) is a fluorescent light that is manufactured in the approximate size and shape of a standard incandescent lamp. It's got an electronic ballast (unlike the standard fluorescent lamp tube which uses a heavy wire wound ballast), and it screws into a socket and performs on the standard line voltage like that aforementioned incandescent lamp. The light emitting diode (LED) is a solid state device that converts electricity into light without heating a filament like the incandescent lamp, or ionizing a gas like the fluorescent light does.
Yes and no. It can run without a starter, but it can't start. The starter stores energy and releases it all at once, causing a higher voltage. The gas in the tube has a higher resistance when not lit, so it takes more voltage to start it glowing. Once it is glowing, the resistance is lower, so it can run without a starter.
Shut off the breaker that supplies the voltage to the fluorescent fixture. Wire the new pull chain switch in series with the black incoming wire and the black wire of the ballast. Turn the breaker back on and your switch will now control the off on operation of the light fixture.
They can, but you need to have a motion sensor/system made for them. They require a ballast to get them to start (in most cases) and don't turn on instantly, making them a poor choice for most security applications. A motion sensor is just a switch so you should have no trouble with fluorescent lights. Older tubes sometimes take longer to fire, try relamping. If the fixture is outside and cold this has a major factor on operation. For outside fluorescent fixtures in real cold climate you need a zero degree ballast. The new electronic ballast are the best as they operate in all kind of temperatures.
There should be a black & white wire coming from the light. Hook black to black and white to white. Then connect the ground wire to the light chassis. You need 12/2 with ground for the circuit. You do not need a light fixture box for these type lights.