Please see link below.
150 psi
Ask the manufacturer for the safest way to do install it
Not directly.
If the tank, shut the water off and drain with a hose on the drain faucet on the bottom of the tank. The pressure relief valve can be replaced (however a PRV is meant to drip, it has to expand.), so can vacuum breakers and the TP valve.
That is called a heater control valve. When you are not using your heater, vaccume closes a small valve that's in the control valve and stopes the water from going through the heater core. Therefore you get no heat inside of the cab.
If you don't, the pressure may fracture your pipes or joints.
It does not have a water flow valve in the heater plumbing.It does not have a water flow valve in the heater plumbing.
You would need to specify the size of the heater
There is no heater control valve on this generation of dodges like there used to be... the water flows constantly through the heater valve.. the only control is a trap door that allows cab air to be run through the heater core and is controlled by a vacuum solenoid in the heater box.. the temp control is also vacuum operated but be sure to check the vacuum supply line coming in from the engine.... it has a check valve in it that can be keeping the controls from getting enough vacuum to operate properly.. if you don't have a mighty vac just get one of those packs of barbed vacuum fittings from your local shucks and bypass the valve temporarily and see if you get heat... hope this helps
yes, but you have to open the relief valve or one of the water connections to allow air to enter the water heater otherwise it will become air-locked and not drain very well.
That would depend on the size and heating capacity of the water heater. You need a temperature and pressure relief valve ( not a pop valve which is pressure only) with an ASME rating at or above the input rating on the water heater. For example: a domestic, gas fired, 40 US gallon water heater might have 36,000 BTU per hour input rating. The pressure relief might be set to 125 or 150 psi, but the temperature rating would have to be at least 36,000 BTUH. A 3/4" T&P relief valve typically is rated at 100,000 btu per hour. If you are dealing with a larger unit ( a 50 or 60 gallon tank, or a cyclone ) you will have to check the rating plate to get the proper relief valve.
If its an electric water heater normally around the elements, Gas at a weld or relief valve.