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Used on exterior decks, the boards are treated with chemicals and pressurized to keep them from rotting and protection from insects eating the boards.
It depends on the joist thickess, spacing and load it is carrying. There is not a answer without more information.
Composite decking materials and exterior vinyl deck floor coverings are more expensive than wood. The final building cost will be a combination of all three
Deck. "Hit the deck" = "Get on the floor" etc.
no.but it's required in most area's ,over a ft.
You can set the joist directly into a 3 or 4 foot hole filled with concrete, however the life expectancy of the joist is about half when it does not come in contact with the ground at all. On my house I set them on metal brackets then epoxied the bracket bolt into the concrete. With pressure treated lumber this post will be "good as new" for 25 years. Depending on the area I have seen concrete ones disintegrate in 3-8 years.
Good rule of thumb (and most code books) state that the maximum overhang should be no more than one-third the total length of the joist. This provides two-thirds of the joist as support.
Deck building calculators to help calculate concrete, joist and beam span, stair stringer layout, baluster, deck boards and deck load too. hi there here it is
The answer requires more information. Joist depth Joist spacing Wood Species Engineered wood will be based on the manufacturers information. Hope this helps! TL North, CBO
Not knowing if the joist are in need of repair from rot (deterioration) or broken/damaged then replace ment of joist may be necessary. First get a replacement joist of the same or better species and treatment content and dimensions as the existing joist. Then cut the joist to the same length. You may have to cut a small angle on the bottom end of the joist to aid in working it over and between the girts and decking boards. Work the joist within a few inches of the joist to be replaced. Use a short 4x4 to drive the joist or a wood block to strike with a hammer. Take a couple of scrap 2x's and temporarily fasten to the girts and new joist to prevent movement. Then you may try a couple methods to remove the old joist. If the decking is fastened with screws then simply backout the screws. If it is nailed, then a 10 lbs. hammer can often remove most anything you need and is a great stress reliever but I recomend you use a reciprocating saw to cut the fasteners between the joist and decking. Usually the vibration of the saw and nails being cut will loosen the deck side of the fasteners and allow you to go top side and pull the old nail halves out. Once the old joist and fasteners are out you can carefully work the new joist in place. I recommend fastening the old decking to the new joist with properly coated screws or a hotdipped galvanized rink shank nail. Repeat joist replacement as necessary on other joist.
Mostly but the deck is not heat treated.
Deck is the floor as in swab (mop) the deck.