=== === == == The process of replacing the equipment that comprises your service is simple and straightforward.
1. Get a permit.
2. A trained person cuts the service conductors so that they don't interfere with the utility company lines [so they can splice back in]!
3. Remove the circuit conductors from the old panel.
4. Demolish the old service.
5. Install the new service.
6. Reconnect the circuit conductors.
7. Tie the new service cable back into the utility lines.
8. Call for inspection.
<><><>
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
The panel and breaker have to be of the same manufacturer. This way the breaker will fit into the panel. If the panel has a push in bus bar, the breaker must also be the type to accept the bus bar. If the bus bars in the panel are of the bolt in type then the breaker also has to be a bolt in breaker.
Normally the main is on the top but you can install a service panel with the main on the bottom unless local codes prohibit it.
First you need to determine if addition of the new breakers will exceed the 200A service under normal operating conditions. If so you will need to go to power company and increase service and put in a larger main panel. If you have the capacity for the extra current you can add a sub-panel and add the breakers there as well as the breakers you will remove from main panel to accommodate the sub-panel breaker. Another way depends on what breakers are in current panel. There are some breakers that can be duplexed in the same space as a single breaker.
No, a Cutler Hammer will not work in a GE panel or vice versa.
Yes. But the NEC requires that your first disconnect be installed as close as practical to where the service enters the building. So if the bedroom isn't where the service enters the home, you will have to install a stand-alone disconnect where it does and then wire to your panel.
It is inserting a breaker into a service panel.
1) If you are tripping the main breaker and you do not have an electrical fault in the home. 2) If you are installing additional circuits or appliances and you expect to exceed 80% of the load capacity of the existing service panel.
No the service wires need to be upgrade to 3/0 copper or 250 mcm aluminum. This will require a power company to disconnect so you can upgrade the service. These wires are always hot unless the power company disconnects from their source. Do it right pull a permit and upgradeAdditional information:Some meter base boxes include a shutoff/breaker. If you are only looking for additional space inside the breaker panel, and do not upgrade to a higher amperage breaker inside the meter base, you actually CAN use the same wire, provided that it is long enough to reach into the new breaker panel. The breaker of the meter base protects from the over-current condition.If you have the shutoff in the meter base, you will obviously be able to disconnect service while you perform the necessary changes. While you are working on the service, lock-out the meter base access to prevent anyone from turning the power back on.It is still recommended that you pull a permit and work with a qualified electrician.
The place where the power drop from the electric company enters your house. The service panel is where the fuses or breaker switches are.
You have two options, one is a complete service change. The average house service these days is 200 amps 42 circuits. The second option is to install a sub panel off the existing service. Depending on how many circuits you need will govern the size the sub panel. Here is where it gets tricky. Two side by side single pole breakers or one two pole breaker will have to be removed from the original service panel and replaced with a new two pole breaker. The size of this breaker will be governed by the total load of the new sub panel. The wire from the new sub panel to the two pole breaker is also governed by the load of the sub panel. As an electrician I would recommend that you not do it yourself but get a qualified electrician to do it for you. He would (should) take a permit out for the job and get it inspected.
50 amps
I doubt if the 125 amp breaker will fit into a 100 amp box. This is due to the rating of the box only being rated at 100 amps. If this exchange could be made then the service conductors feeding the box must be upgraded to take the 125 amperage that the breaker will allow on the conductor.
The biggest circuit breaker in any home is the main breaker located in your main breaker panel that is installed where your electrical service cable comes into your home.
Simple. Your main electrical panel will have a "main breaker". This will be a two pole breaker, usually at the top of the panel. It will have a number on the breaker "handle" such as 150 or 200. This is the maximum number of amps your panel can supply. Most newer homes, 1975 and newer have a 200 amp service.
50 amps
Have a larger electrical box installed. assuming the utlity company ran 4/0,4/0, and a 2/0. You need to upgrade the service to 3/0 cu wires or 4/0 al (which will be cheaper and lighter to install than cu) . Upsize the panel to a 200 amp, and obviously change out the 150 amp breaker. All conduits would have to be looked at and and the panel bassically reassembled ( hooking up all the breakers again). The ground wire needs to be changed to a bare #4 copper
The panel and breaker have to be of the same manufacturer. This way the breaker will fit into the panel. If the panel has a push in bus bar, the breaker must also be the type to accept the bus bar. If the bus bars in the panel are of the bolt in type then the breaker also has to be a bolt in breaker.