400 to 450 grams est.
The difference between the two machines is the gap of tension in regards to the armature bar to the frame as well the gap between the contact screw to the spring. For a liner, you will want there to be more tension with the bar and a little bit of give with the spring. For a shader, you will want there to be less tension with the bar and more with the spring. The age old reference tool for this in regards to the proper amount of gap between the screw and the spring is; the width of a nickel for a liner, and the width of a dime for a shader. With this said, this is not a universal reference and all machines have the potential to be different. It all comes down to the type of metal that your frame is made of, the type of metal your armature bar is made of, the quality of your coil wrappings, the electrical integrity of your power supply, etc., etc. You get what you pay for with tattoo equipment, and nowhere is this more relevant than with your machines, ink, needles and your power supply so don't be cheap when it comes to buying supplies.
A tattoo machine's speed is so very widely variable that an estimate would do no good. You could use a weak coil machine with a lot of spring tension on a low power source and it will go really slow. But say you use a double contact liner at high power and it goes fast. Even a single machine can be a slow shader or a fast liner. You'll never find a straight up answer, sorry.
Should have a spring loaded belt tensioner
You don't. The timing belt should have a spring loaded tensioner which pulls on the belt to adjust tension.
should have spring loaded tensioner nonadjustable
a liner usually runs faster and delivers more of a punch. shaders run slower and back off easier because they make more passes over a single area of skin. these are, of course, really basic answers. there are more in depth reasons. consult your tattooist, and he/she can fill you in.
No, tensioner pulley is at a preset tension, no adjustment can be made. If there is slop in the belt, the spring loaded tensioner should be replaced.
You might want to check the belt or the clutch if it is a GE. The V-belt is probably slipping on the pulley. If there is no tension spring or place to adjust the tension, try belt dressing or replace the belt.
Well, when you do line work, your gap on the spring should be the thickness of a dime. And for shading, the thickness of a nickel. Of course, everyone does it different, but this is just for beginning.-This may be the answer you were looking for but to take the question literally I believe you are asking for the actual gauge of the spring stock. Simply put it is mostly up to your personal tastes as a Tattoo Artist but the general rule of thumb is the thicker the spring the faster it will go, so for example you may use .013 - .018 for a shader and .017- .022 for a liner, you may also change the gauges between the main (back) and timing (front spring) but generally only within .002 eg. .018 main .020 timing.
a balance that measure weight by the tension on a helical spring
Increase the tension on the spring
Serepentine bels do not have tension adjustments, there is a tension pully That is preloaded with a coil spring in it. If the belt is loose, the pully spring may have lost it tension. Replace the pully assembley.