A 402 is really a 396, bored .030 over, already. .120, is about all there is before you hit water, so, another .090. You can sleeve the block, and go further, however, at that point you would be better to with an aftermarket block.
.030"
No. You would need to bore the block to 4 inches, which is too much for a 305.
.060"
It depends on the block, check with a reputable shop. A good estimate is .030 (Or 30 thousandths of an inch, in case I got the decimal wrong.)
A 383 is a 350 block with a 400 crank. The block is bored to 4.030". A 400 has a 4.125" bore, so you'd need to bore the 383 roughly .095", which is probably not practical as the 350 is not made to be overbored that much.
Just the short block, about 300lbs.
A 1970 Chevy chevelle has 500 HORSEPOWER and 450 FOOT POUNDS OF TORQUE.
About 400lbs.
A 350 Chevy bored 80 over would be a 364 cubic inch V8. Here's a simple formula to figure the displacement of a V8 engine: Multiply bore X bore X stroke X 6.285 and you can figure out the displacement of any V8 engine based on what the bore and stroke is. Now, before you bore a block that far over, make sure the block can safely handle that much of an overbore. An extra 5 or 10 cubic inches isn't going to make enough of a difference to justify making the cylinder walls too thin.
No more then 0.060 and then it starts trying to RUN HOT on you.
350, to 400lbs, depending on how much aluminum you put on it.
Roughly 550 pounds dry.