The answer depends on how well you service the car and keep up with repairs. How much money are you willing to spend on it???
I have 200k miles on my 97 Diamante. Still looks and runs great.
You need to change the camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor. i had the same problem with my 98 Dodge Intrepid ES 3.2 at 150K miles and it kept getting worse. Change to those 2 sensors and it runs great at 188K miles. Did the job myself it was very easy. Good luck!
According to www.jobnob.com, lawyers can make the following: New York City: An average of $188k at David Polk & Wardwell Los Angeles: An average of $159k at Quinn Emmanuel Urquhart & Hedges Washington DC: An average of $163k at Arnold & Porter
You may have a radiator fan relay problem. Check the fan/blower motor itself by hooking it directly up to the battery. Try locating the fan relay and check it out. If you purchase a Chilton service manual, it should specify how and assist you with more info on your problem. If you don't want to buy one, visit you public library and see if they can help. Also, check the water pump belt and water pump. If the water pump on my '97 Aurora siezed up and caused the drive belt to disintigrate. The olds will stay cool for a while, but in hot weather it will overheat. One cannot see the belt from the topside of the engine, there is a shield over the assembly. Good luck! I HAVE A 96 AURORA WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. CHECKED EVERYTHING AND IT CAME DOWN TO THE PCM. THE EASIEST FIX WILL BE TO GO TO THE RADIATOR OVERFLOW TANK AND UNPLUG THE COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR. NOW THIS WILL CAUSE THE MESSAGE DISPLAY ON THE DASH TO GIVE THE ERROR MESSAGE "LOW ENGINE COOLANT" BUT THE FANS WILL KICK ON AT AROUND 175 DEGREES. ONE FAN PUSHES AND ONE PULLS AIR. NO OTHER PROBLEMS WILL SURFACE BY UNPLUGGING THIS. I DID THIS AT 188K I AM NOW AT 281K AND SHE STILL RUNS LIKE A TOP. JUST BE MINDFUL OF YOUR COOLANT LEVEL SINCE YOUR SENSOR WILL NO LONGER ALERT YOU TO A LOW LEVEL CONDITION.
==CHECK THIS FIRST===I went through all these scenarios myself... checked vaccuum hoses, tranny, everything. In the end I replaced the PCV valve (which was frozen) and the breather element. Less than $10 and no tools required and the problem went away immediately!AnswerIt is your transmission. Dodge Transmissions are always going bad so do not replace it because it will just go out again. Instead buy a different brand of truck. I recommend you to buy a Ford or Chevy truck. They both have a very good transmission. I had a 1991 Dodge Ram 1500 and the same thing happened to it. AnswerNOOOOO it cant be! I love my Dodge.... and refuse to buy a ford. I bought a 94 ford explorer and I swear that sucker would overheat while idleing. So I guess that leaves Chevy :\ AnswerBefore trying a new transmission (or a Ford or Chevy), try replacing the U-joint first. I spent $15 and it took care of it. AnswerIf it is a manual transmission Sounds like the clutch is still partly engagedcheck the fluid in the clutch master cylinder, look for leaks, bleed it, Check everything including slave cylinder hoses and lines linkage Etc. As for dodge transmissions ALWAYS going bad that guy must be a dodge hater my 98 Dakota that I bought new has 188k miles and I have never had tranny trouble, my brother has an 89 Dakota aproaching 300k with the original transmission. Both trucks have 5 speeds AnswerIf the truck has an auto: My 1993 Dakota did that, shake, stall at stops. I clean the carberator out with spray gumoit and a tooth brush. Runs great now running on 2 years since. AnswerOk Im a big Ford truck fan...but Im not going to tell you to go buy another truck..that's silly. Another problem when you put this in gear and you get a shudder may not be transmission related at all. It could be carberator and ignition timing related as indicated above. Its not uncommon for older vehicles to develop vacuum leaks (dry rotted vacuum hoses/bad diaphrams in the vacuum system. When you put a load on the engine (ie engage the transmission while applying the brake)the brake is vacuum driven and with a poor/leaky vacuum system it misses and causes a shudder during engaging the brakes..it just so happens your engaging the brake so you can move the gear shift lever into drive. This why this even occurs when you bring the vehicle to a stop..the leak creates that same shudder effect which can even result in stalling from time to time. Now this wont occur at highway speeds because the vacuum system plays less and less of a role at those speeds. But you will want to check your vacuum system and even your brake master cylinder for leaks/age.
I am a Realtor in Texas. I have worked with many buyers and they all have different preferences in this area. It always seems to hinge on how much cash you can afford (or want) to come up with at closing. Ideally, I believe it is best to pay the closing costs up front, rather than wrap them into the mortgage...if you're able. A couple of reasons FOR paying cash: 1. As with anything you finance, you end up paying waaaaaaay more than the principle amount that was financed. $5,000 closing costs, added to your mortgage, may end up costing you $25,000 in the long run (just a hypothetical estimate). 2. You can buy more house (dollar wise) if you pay the closing costs. If you're pre-approved for $200k, but want to wrap $12k of closing costs back into the loan, that means you will only be buying a $188k home, not a $200k home...but you're still financing $200k! A couple of reasons AGAINST paying cash: 1. You don't have the money to spend on closing costs right now (or you would rather use the money on something else). 2. Seller is willing to pay the closing costs for you, without moving the sales price of the home above what the house is worth. Although, if the seller is willing to do this, he/she would probably be willing to take that much less for the house and NOT pay your closing costs. In which case, I would recommend paying less for the house and still paying cash for the closing. 3. If you're only a couple of thousand dollars away from being able to put 20% down on the mortgage, which means you would NOT have to pay mortgage insurance, you may want to wrap the closing costs into the mortgage and add that cash to your down payment. Although mortgage insurance is only about $50 a month, it adds up over time. That extra amount on your monthly payment doesn't go away until you've paid off 20% of your mortgage. Again, it's all dependant on your situation (financial capabilities and personal wants). --Kevin
does a 2002 mazda protege have a front wheel drive
Yes, the Mazda 2 is Front Wheel Drive
The drive from South Dakota to Indiana is longer. It is 433 miles from Pierre, South Dakota to Estevan, Saskatchewan, Canada, while it is 824 miles from Pierre, South Dakota to Gary, Indiana.
The 2006 Mazda MAZDA6 has front wheel drive.
The 2003 Mazda MAZDA6 has front wheel drive.
The 2011 Mazda MAZDA3 has front wheel drive.
The 2013 Mazda Mazdaspeed3 has front wheel drive.
The 2011 Mazda MAZDA2 has front wheel drive.
The 2009 Mazda MAZDA5 has front wheel drive.
The 2005 Mazda MAZDA6 has front wheel drive.
The 2009 Mazda MAZDA6 has front wheel drive.
The 2012 Mazda Mazdaspeed3 has front wheel drive.
The 2010 Mazda Mazdaspeed3 has front wheel drive.
The 2004 Mazda MAZDA3 has front wheel drive.
The 2011 Mazda Mazdaspeed3 has front wheel drive.
The 2013 Mazda MAZDA3 has front wheel drive.
The 2012 Mazda MAZDA3 has front wheel drive.
The 2012 Mazda MAZDA2 has front wheel drive.