No and yes. No, you won't get more water pressure. To do that you'll need to find out why the water pressure is low. Perhaps flow restriction, perhaps a poorly adjusted water pressure regulator, perhaps low pressure from the well/city water. But an additional water heater will certainly give you more hot water. It would be like putting in a LARGER water heater. In most cities the water pressure required is about 20 PSI. Small city's do not add pressure pumps to their system but use a gravity supply. That is why most places there is a pressure problem either build their water tanks taller or erect them on a hill.
A tankless water heater is much more efficient as it "flash" heats the water.
Not directly.
A TNP valve is a temperature and pressure valve found on a water heater.
The water pressure in my house is about 140PSI. Which is definitely dangerous. It happens more often than you would think. What happens is a city will use water supply lines which are too small for the water requirements. Therefore, they have to increase the pressure. You wouldn't want a pressure relief valve, because then if the pressure was too high, it would just spray water everywhere to release the pressure. You would want a pressure regulator installed, which is what I am working on for my house right now. Just to let you know though, you may have to get a thermal expansion tank for your water heater if you don't have one. See, the new pressure regulators have a check valve in them, which prevents water from traveling back into the city pipes once it has gotten into your house. When your water heater heats the water, the air bubbles in it expand, which increases the water pressure, and will probably cause your pressure relief valve on your water heater to blow. You can get a cheap water pressure meter at any improvement store to check it out. 50-60 PSI is ok. I would say you could take it up to 70 or 80 PSI safely.
My guess is that the hot water heater is installed downstream from a pressure reducer to limit the maximum water pressure that the water heater is exposed to.
A high pressure will be able to push the coolants into the heater cores.
Generally this is caused by pressure being built up from the water getting hot in the hot water heater. By code you should have a hot water heater expansion tank on the cold water inlet of the water heater to absorb the added pressure. If this is your problem, the excessive pressure could possibly burst your water heater. The faucet stem or cartridge or washer may be loose or moving and blocking flow.
Water pressure from a garden hose is sufficient.
The water pressure when one turns on the hot water is lacking because the water is coming from one's water heater, which is at the same level as the faucet, whereas the pressure from the cold valve is coming directly from one's town's water tower, which is at a much greater elevation. Also, the water heater tank is only a few feet high, whereas the water holding cell in a water tower is several feet high. The potential energy of the water tower far exceeds that of one's hot water heater, thus the cold water flows out of the faucet with much more pressure.
If the water is dripping, I would replace it just to be safe. It doesn't cost much money.
Thermostat is not allowing the engine to warm up enough to produce heated coolant to the heater core. Heater control valve is faulty or not opening. Low coolant level; coolant level is insufficient to pump into the heater core. Blocked or damaged heater core. Start with the thermostat, that's very common. While you're at it, make sure the coolant level is up. After that, if you suspect a blocked heater core, try backflushing the heater core. Turn the heat on full to open the valve, then with the heater hoses removed, run water BACKWARDS through the heater core. As you remove the heater hoses. Don't use much water pressure, if you go over 15 PSI pressure you could blow the heater core and then you have real problems. Typical water pressure at a house is 50 to 120 PSI, so if you use your water hose make sure you control the pressure.
This could either be due to the age or the materials used to make the water heater or the fact that the water heater has not been installed with vacuum breakers causing the geyser to collapse from the inside-out due to incorrect atmospheric pressure within the water heater
No and yes. No, you won't get more water pressure. To do that you'll need to find out why the water pressure is low. Perhaps flow restriction, perhaps a poorly adjusted water pressure regulator, perhaps low pressure from the well/city water. But an additional water heater will certainly give you more hot water. It would be like putting in a LARGER water heater. In most cities the water pressure required is about 20 PSI. Small city's do not add pressure pumps to their system but use a gravity supply. That is why most places there is a pressure problem either build their water tanks taller or erect them on a hill.
If you don't, the pressure may fracture your pipes or joints.
The cold water inlet valve to the water heater is closed.
Remove hoses. Inject water into heater water output connection but be carefull not to use full pressure of house supply.