The number that is on a breaker is the amount of amperage that the breaker can deliver before it trips. This is the same regardless of how many poles the breaker is.
Joey Breaker - 1993 is rated/received certificates of: USA:R
A circuit breaker is dual function. The only time it will trip is if it senses a fault current that is rated higher than the breaker rating (short circuit). The other trip condition is if the circuit is overloaded and is drawing a current higher than the breaker rating. On breakers that protect motor feeders the breaker has to be rated 250% higher than the motors full load amperage. If the breaker has lots of use and is used for a switch being manually turned off and on will weaken the trip value of the breaker. If you have access to, or know an electrician, a clamp on amp meter on the conductor that the breaker feeds will tell you what is happening. Clamp the line and turn on the load to see exactly what the current is. If, like you say, the breaker is properly rated and the current is within the breaker limits then change out the breaker for a new one.
Not unless the appliance is rated to be used with the two different power supplies. The US uses 120v, 60 Hz if it plugs into a receptacle, and possibly 240v, 60Hz if it is hard wired. The UK uses 240v, 50Hz whether it plugs in or is hard wired. These two power systems are NOT compatible. You may use a US appliance in the UK, and vice versa, only if the appliance is dual rated, i.e. the appliance says 120v/60Hz AND 240v/50Hz on the nameplate. If the appliance only specifies one power supply, it can only be used on that power supply. If this is the case, you may be able to use a travel adapter to operate the appliance.
The rated voltage of an appliance is no guide to its power rating. To find out the power (watts), you will need to look at your washing machine's nameplate, which will indicate both its rated voltage and its rated power.
The 80% ideal is from the NEC. Let's say you have a standard 15A circuit. This circuit is rated to carry a maximum of 15A, no more. If you try to draw more than 15A, the breaker will pop. Now, you can put 15A worth of appliances on this circuit, but then you are running it at its maximum all the time. If you add anything else to this circuit, you will pop the breaker. If you have something that draws surge current, it can opo the breaker under normal use. You have no "wiggle room" when you load it at its maximum. Also, as touched on above, if you run your circuit at the maximum you cannot add anything else. This is generally a sign that you need to upgrade your wiring. Furthermore, the breaker can handle 15A indefinitly under standard test conditions, which are close to ideal. Your breaker box may not be ideal. Breakers are thermal devices, so self heating and heating from other breakers can be a problem. If your breaker is hot, it will pop sooner than if it is cold. The more current that flows through it, the hotter it will get. If you are overloading circuits the easiest thing to do is to break the circuit up into multiple circuits. The exact implementation will depend on the situation.
If the appliance is just to be plugged into a circuit with multiple outlets then you just need to make sure that the sum of currents for all devices on the circuit are less than the rated current. A rule of thumb is total current should be no greater than 80% of the rated current. So you might have a 20 A breaker and several 2.5 A appliances on this circuit. If you have a dedicated circuit for the appliance you would only need to size the breaker for the maximum current being drawn by the appliance. If the appliance contained a motor then there might be a start-up current that might be as high as 15 amps so you would likely go to a 20 amp breaker for a safety margin. As a practical matter a dedicated circuit for an appliance in the 2.5 amp range should have a 15 amp breaker. I always install a 20 amp breaker just for added margin and possible future applications.
Yes, it will be protected by a circuit breaker or fuse. The normal rating of the circuit breaker or fuse is 25% more than the maximum current expected, or the maximum current allowed for the cable size, whichever is lower.
Yes, the microwave draws less that the circuits protective rating and will not trip the breaker if used on a 15 amp circuit.
Current or AMPS are what the appliance draws or load of the appliance. So, if you have a say 10,000 amps going thru a cable rated for say 1,000 amps , guess what ,the cable over heats and either will melt or at least catch fire.
To use an adapter of this sort, its rated voltage must match the rated voltage of the appliance, and its rated current must exceed that of the appliance. So, in your example, the rated voltage is too high to be used with your appliance.
A 30 amp breaker is designed to trip at an earlier point than a larger 40 amp breaker so one appliance that operates on lower amperage level could be unsafe or damaged before it could trip the higher 40 amp breaker. Also, the existing wiring may not be rated for 40 amp service.
breakers are rated by wire size, not voltage. the appliance manufacturer will probably specify amperage.
You don't calculate the rated kV.A of a circuit breaker; it's determined by the manufacturer. It's important that a circuit breaker's rated kV.A exceeds the fault level kV.A at the point where the circuit breaker is located, otherwise it may fail to interrupt a fault current and, possibly, self destruct.
Winter Draws On - 1948 is rated/received certificates of: USA:Approved (PCA #4356)
Tony Draws a Horse - 1950 is rated/received certificates of: Finland:S
It means that, to operate at its rated power, the appliance must be provided with a 230-V supply.
Joey Breaker - 1993 is rated/received certificates of: USA:R