I am a Baquacil employee and usually watermold is due to bacteria in the water that is built up over time caused by the Sanitizer and Algistat reading fluctating. It is very important to test that reading weekly and add the top-up dosage as needed. Also it is important, especially in Baquacil pools, to chemically clean the filter monthly. The best way to treat watermold (white or pink) is to add the Water Clarifier to the skimmer with the filter running, then add the Flocculant as a filter aide, let filter 8-12 hrs, vaccum to waste, and chemically clean the filter. The most important step is chemically cleaning the filter because the watermold tends to trap itself in the filter and the pool can be clear after this process but without chemically cleaning the filter, the watermold just filters back through and starts to form again.
Another way to help prevent water mold if you have already had it is to use the Baquacil CDX. In the past we have had Ultra but we are really moving toward the CDX to help maintain the Oxidizer reading.
I think you have water mold. Baquacil ultra is supposed to get rid of it. It worked for me.
The first thing to do would be to test for the Total Alkalinity. If it is not within the 60-120 range the water will be cloudy and nothing will clear it up except adjusting it. Another thing would be to chemically clean the filter. Baquacil recommends that you chemically clean it at least once a month, if the filter is clogged up it could cause the pool to be cloudy. The last resort would be to add the Flocculant.
Baquacil is completely imcompatible with Chlorine and usually the water will instantly turn green, you can use the Baquacil Chlorine Neutralizer to help disepate the CL out.
No, you do not have to change the water but you do need to wait until the CL reading is 0 before adding Baquacil or there will be a reaction and the water will turn green.
Because what you've got is a colloidal suspension of a bunch of rather oily stuff in water, and they are by nature cloudy.
Not recommended, Baquacil is a swimming pool, hydrogen peroxide (Potassium) based chemical. Baqua Spa is the recommended (Potassium) based spa chemical.
A cloudy aquarium usually clears itself over time. Cloudy water is most often caused by unicellular organisms (AKA algae or bacteria) floating in your water. If the tank is sitting in the sun, either cover the window or move the tank. If you have lights on the tank, reduce the amount of time they are on. If your filter is running properly, that will also help. Cloudy water is often a symptom of a newer (< 2 months old) aquarium, and will generally clear itself. However, cloudy water is also a sign that something is not right, and may indicate a toxic ammonia problem.
"Shocking" a baquacil pool. It is a non-chlorine Oxidizer used to help maintain good water clarity by oxidizing organtic compounds in the water from swimmer and other enviornmental debris.
I have been using Baquacil for 18 years in an in-ground pool. I used chlorine in an above ground pool prior. The cost difference is obvious. Starting off new, Baquacil is very expensive. As the years go on, the cost of the sanitizer drops dramatically because of the baquacil buildup in the water. You dont have the chlorine smell and the eye burning. I recommend washing the baquacil from your hair since the hair tends to get heavy after swimming. Foaming is also a problem with baquacil. I still prefer baquacil and intend to use it after I install a new liner next year.
it is a chemical distiller. it mixes up the water based stuff and the oily stuff and keeps them mixed up. If it wasnt there you would have a layer of water and oil
If you have Baquacil Test Strips then going to the Pool Center would not be necessary, you can just do it yourself and adjust the readings.
Murkey or cloudy water could be caused by magnesium sulfade
Cloudy water is usually the result of dissolved solids in the water, or dissolved air bubbles in the water.