In most instances I would recommend hiring an engineer to do the job of figuring out what you would need to support the roof. Through experience of working on open floor design I used in the past a 4x8x25 beam to support such a large area. You would also need someone that understand Simpson caps and foundation support. My recommendation is that you first hire a contractor and he'll bring together the engineer to make sure it's done right. If you ever need help you can call me at 888 221 6663.
Most building codes require engineering on structural issues that do not meet the definition of CONVENTIONAL DESIGN. I suggest that you get an engineer to evaluate the structure before you make any modifications. You may also need to obtain a local building permit.
If you have a pole supporting a room don't just rip it out!!!!!
You will have to check to see which way the ceiling joists run, and then install either a flush beam or an exposed beam that spans from wall to wall perpendicular to the ceiling joists. it is important that the load transfer to the foundation, so you will need to open the walls where the beam will sit and pack the them with 2X4's studs (from the top plate down to the sill plate) also make sure that the point load is carried to the foundation below (squash blocks). Good luck but call a Licensed Carpenter to assist you.
If there's a "pole", I can only assume there must be a beam already. My guess is that the beam is not large enough to clear span the distance. Contact an engineer to decide the sufficient size beam upgrade.
If cost is going to be a factor I suggest not doing it at all. However, if you wish to save a bit of money on the design hire a draftsman. They are cheaper and usually have an engineer check their work. We did this on our home. But depending on where your beam is its going to be rather large to replace with a self supporting one.
Our beam spans 27 feet and is 9 inches wide by 18 inches deep...29 feet long.
The most cost effective way to remedy this may be to field modify your roof framing into a truss system by securing cross-members along the rafters and ceiling joists with bolts and fastening plates. It still has to be designed by an architect or engineer. I've found it's often easier to install a number of small, light pieces inside the ceiling than a large, heavy, visible beam below it.
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