Not necessarily. Driving is much more complex than such a hard-and-fast rule.
It's hard to diagnose without hearing the noise, but if you're sure that it is not the brakes, it could be dirt/sand/rock in the brakes. If you're hearing the sound all the time (even when not applying the brakes), it could be wheel bearings.
Normally, use both brakes at the same time. If your rear wheel locks, DO NOT brake, but rather decrease throttle until you can coast to a stop on the side of the road.
Usually on a new car the problem is incorrectly torqued wheels. Your owners manual will tell you how to do this. If not, loosen all wheel nuts on one wheel at a time. Then retighten each nut in an X patern.
Braking in a moving vehicle is applying the brakes to slow or halt movement, usually by depressing a pedal. The braking distance is the distance between the time the brakes are applied and the time the vehicle comes to a complete stop.
Not really unless all your brake bads are badly worn down , since abs compensates for the rate of rotation for each wheel so that you brake straight , keeping in mind that the front brakes take the most load and the back brakes take less so you should replace them in sets (front brakes) & (back brakes)
they're so heavy that it takes the brakes some time to dissipate all that moving energy.
apply your brakes gently while accelerating at the same time
after emoving wheel and brake drum you will have to teke brakes off. i usually do one side at a time so i can see how to put the springs back on. once brakes off indo brake line and tthen the two bolts that attach it to backing plate. after replacing you will have to bleed brakes
Always replace inner and outer wheel bearings on the same wheel at the same. You don't necessarily have to replace the bearings in both wheels at the same time, though it's not a bad idea, but always inner and outer on the same wheel at the same time.
Might be a bad wheel bearing assembly
With the brake pedal 1 wheel at a time . Just crack open the bleeder on the downstroke & tighten before release. You can use a helper or pressure bleed & essentially do the same thing. Lines that were not opened for repair do not need to be bled. It saves time by starting with the wheel closest the master.
You probably have a warped rotor on one or both of your front wheels.