It is not good practice in new wiring, but done all the time as part of a retrofit. Use 12 AWG wiring and make sure the circuit is not overloaded.
A 240 volt street light circuit is wired in parallel connections. In the base of the street fixture an inline fuse is connected into the circuit that goes up to the fixture to protect the lamp head.
No, a switch is used to control the circuit voltage that is applied to the fixture for turning the fixture on and off. The starter in the fluorescent fixture is used to start the current flowing through the filaments in the fixture's tubes. After a specific time, the starter heats up the circuit is opened and the current then flows through the fluorescent tubes.
No. Starter comes in the circuit initially and then cuts off once the tube is on. If you use the switch, it wont be cut off automatically. If you want to use the switch manually then it technically possible to do so
No, the bath vent fan does not need a designated circuit. If this is a new installation install a three wire cable to the fixture from a two gang switch box. Cover plates for two gang boxes can be bought with a blank on one side and a switch on the other. At some time in the future a lighted fan enclosure may be installed. This will allow the light and fans to be operated independently.
no ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Stepdown transformer. More expensive than buying the correct light fixture. Y-THINK-Y
This depends upon the circuit breaker capacity. You may never load a circuit to greater than 80% of it's capacity. So you may load up to 12 Amps on a 15 Amp circuit, and, 16 Amps on a 20 Amp circuit. The National Electrical Code requires you to calculate each receptacle at 180 VA. If the circuit is 120 volts and 15 amps, you would have 1800 VA, divide by 180 VA per receptacle, equals 10 receptacles per circuit (minus the wattage of each luminaire or light fixture added to the circuit, before dividing by the 180 VA). If the circuit is 120 volts and 20 amps, you would have 2400 VA, divide by 180 VA per receptacle, equals 13.333 receptacles per circuit (round down to 13 receptacles),(minus the wattage of each luminaire or light fixture added to the circuit, before dividing by the 180 VA).
A 240 volt street light circuit is wired in parallel connections. In the base of the street fixture an inline fuse is connected into the circuit that goes up to the fixture to protect the lamp head.
A 32 amp fixture can not be fed from a 20 amp breaker as the breaker will trip every time.
No, a switch is used to control the circuit voltage that is applied to the fixture for turning the fixture on and off. The starter in the fluorescent fixture is used to start the current flowing through the filaments in the fixture's tubes. After a specific time, the starter heats up the circuit is opened and the current then flows through the fluorescent tubes.
Any devices that are added to a circuit and need the full line voltage to operate, are added in parallel to any other load devices or fixtures in the circuit.
No. Starter comes in the circuit initially and then cuts off once the tube is on. If you use the switch, it wont be cut off automatically. If you want to use the switch manually then it technically possible to do so
At the basic level, you're looking at: * Circuit Protection (fuse or circuit breaker) * Cabling * Mounting hardware (for the light fixture itself) * Within the fixture; A socket, bulb, bulb protection (cover, or sheild)
Yes, Section 240.5(B)(2) Fixture Wires, allows #14 AWG fixture wires to be tapped to the #10 AWG branch circuit wires.
Is this a fluorescent fixture? Most fluorescents will not start if the fixture is not grounded. Make sure the fixture has the branch circuit ground wire properly connected.
Just install the new fixture with black to black, white to white, and cap off the ground wire on the new fixture. It'll be fine.
The same procedure is used to wire a mercury vapour fixture as it is a normal home fixture. First the voltage source is needed and has to match the voltage that is on the nameplate of the mercury vapour fixture. The amperage of the fixture has to be taken into consideration, also taken from the fixtures nameplate. Once the amperage is known then the decision is whether one or more fixtures will be placed on the same circuit. When the total amperage is decided on, it will be that amperage that decides what size conductors will be used and what size breaker will be used to protect the circuit. Next decision is how you want to control the fixture. There are two methods depending on where the fixture will be placed. If it is outside then a photo cell with a bypass switch ahead of the cell is the most common configuration. If the fixture is an indoor type then just a wall switch will be used to control the fixture.
The last fixture in a parallel circuit is wired the same as the first. In North America, all of the fixtures are wired black wire to black wire and white wire to white wire. The black wire being the "hot" wire and the white wire being the neutral wire.