Yes, it would appear that one side of the main is open at the fuse, breaker, drop conductors, or transformer.
The dryer tripped the breaker. Have it repaired. Don't try to use it again. You could cause a fire.
An electrician would put in two separate circuits since there is no telling in future that gas dryer might be replaced. You need to look at the breaker protecting the circuit and see if the current from the dryer and washer when added together don't exceed 80% of the breaker rating. Also the start up current for the dryer tumbler and washing machine motor don't add up to more than the breaker rating when added together. This is where problems will occur since start up currents may be 6 times running current.
A dryer requires a 30 amp receptacle. This will be to receive a four blade dryer plug. The wire needed will be a three copper wire #10 cable set with a bare #14 copper ground wire. The breaker will be a two pole 30 amp breaker.
Branch circuits wire sizes are governed by the connected load amperage of the circuit. The wire size ampacity then governs the size of the breaker that is used to protect the circuit from overloading. For general home wiring circuits the conductors used are, receptacles and lighting #14 - 15 amps, dedicated circuits load dependant, hot water tank and baseboard heaters #12 - 20 amps, clothes dryer #10 - 30 amps, range #8 -- 40 amps.
In North America the standard sizes for breakers are 15, 20, 30, and 40 amps. The 15 amp size breaker is used in general circuit wiring. The 20 amp size breaker is used for dedicated appliance receptacles, hot water tank and baseboard heating. The 30 amp size breaker is used for a clothes dryer. The 40 amp size breaker is used for the electric range.
No. The two appliances usually have dedicated circuits. The range will have a two pole 40 amp breaker and be fed with a 3-C #8 copper cable. The dryer will have a 30 amp two pole breaker and be fed with a 3-C # 10 copper cable. As you can see by powering a 40 amp device from a 30 amp breaker, full operation of the range will trip the 30 amp breaker.
Typical residential electric dryers are on 30 amp circuits, which means 10 gage copper wire. The circuit breaker should match the dryer cord rating, generally 30 amps.
Could be but you could also have a weak breaker that will no longer hold the load of your dryer. That is if your talking about your dryer breaker tripping. If your "main breaker" is tripping you have a different problem. Call an electrician in that case. A plugged up dryer shouldn't be tripping your main
Don't understand this question. If the breaker is on, then the dryer would function normally, if the breaker your are referring to is the one for the dryer. If the breaker is off then no function. A dryer runs on 220.
I suspect you mean GFIC breaker. The dryer will not cause the breaker to fail.
The dryer tripped the breaker. Have it repaired. Don't try to use it again. You could cause a fire.
It must be on the same circuit in your breaker box. They both need dedicated circuits for them.
If you are no longer using the dryer and there are 4-wires, and the dryer was 220 to 240 volts, it can be split into two 110 to 120 Volt circuits.
If the GFI that is tripping is a different circuit, there is electrical leakage between the circuit the GFI is controlling, and the dryer circuit. It is possible that there is some cross wiring in the electrical box. I would strongly recommend getting a licensed electrician to look at it, preferably before you have a fire. If the GFI is the same circuit as the one where the dryer is plugged in, you might want to have the dryer checked for leakage to ground. You should also check the dryer circuit's rating against the rating of the breaker in its circuit. A dryer typically takes 30A on usually a single two-gang breaker; if you have a larger dryer that pulls, say, 45A, a 30A breaker will always pop. It sounds to me like a bad electrician has, instead of buying a proper two-gang 30-A breaker, installed your dryer across two circuits, one being the garage GFI circuit; the dryer, because it pulls 220V, pulls an unbalanced load across the GFI and triggers it, and the other circuit breaker is triggered because it loses the extra power provided through the GFI. I cannot emphasize this enough: get this checked out and fixed. Now. Before you get a house fire.
An electrician would put in two separate circuits since there is no telling in future that gas dryer might be replaced. You need to look at the breaker protecting the circuit and see if the current from the dryer and washer when added together don't exceed 80% of the breaker rating. Also the start up current for the dryer tumbler and washing machine motor don't add up to more than the breaker rating when added together. This is where problems will occur since start up currents may be 6 times running current.
If you are referring to a cloths dryer, the answer depends on the requirements of the dryer. Most dryers require AWG#10 wire with a 30 amp fuse. If the wiring is AWG#12 then use a 20 amp breaker but never use it on AWG#10 which requires a 30 amp breaker. If you are referring to a hair dryer then yes a 20 amp breaker is fine.
Under no circumstances should you do this.. for one they probably have different power requirements, but also they are high current devices, and by code MUST be put on separate branch circuits