Volkswagen made two kinds of cars: ones with aircooled engines, and ones with watercooled engines. If you've got a question about a Volkswagen, we can answer it better if you put the question in the right category. Watercooled cars: If your engine is in front, your car's watercooled. Always. Gasoline-powered Vanagons from "1983 and a half" to 1991, and diesel Vanagons, also have watercooled engines. For the first half of 1983 Volkswagen used aircooled engines in Vanagons. In the second half, the engines were watercooled "wasserboxers," which are viciously called "wasserleakers" because if the seals aren't perfect they leave puddles of coolant everywhere they go. I recommend Prestone Lo-Tox antifreeze if you've got one of these cars. If ihre Wasserleaker starts leaking really badly, it's possible to replace that engine with one out of an old Rabbit. It doesn't just "go right in," but Kennedy Engineered Products sells a conversion kit for it. Changing the diesel engine to a Rabbit engine used to be very popular because diesel Vanagons are very slow. It's not an easy swap either, but it's easier than the Wasserleaker conversion. Aircooled cars: Except for the aforementioned Vanagons, any Volkswagen with the engine in back is aircooled.
The watercooled ones are made at VW's Mexico factory. The aircooled ones were made all over the world but are not made anymore.
No. Old vw beetles are aircooled.
look at the sambas website it has lots of goodies for classic vw
For an aircooled VW Beetle, use Castrol GTX2. It has the right viscosity.
Roughly 250 - 260 pounds dressed.
No. No aircooled VW has a limited-slip differential.
It's pretty easy on an aircooled engine. The bolt that holds it on doesn't get very tight, so what you need to do is to lock the crank pulley somehow--I've done it by just squeezing the belt together real tight with my hand--and removing the bolt with a 30mm socket. If you stil On a watercooled engine you'll need an impact wrench. In either case, once the bolt is out the pulley slides off the crank. You might need a puller on a watercooled engine; I never have used one on an aircooled engine--you can normally just wiggle the pulley a little and it slides off. Helpful hint: on an aircooled car put a little high-temp grease on the end of the crank before you put the pulley back on. There's a Woodruff key in there so it won't spin around, but it will make getting it on and off easier. I wouldn't do it on a watercooled car because on those there isn't anything to keep the pulley from spinning except for LOTS and LOTS of torque on the bolt.
The firing order, or "zundfolge," of your engine is 1 - 4 - 3 - 2.
1-4-3-2. All aircooled 4-cyl VW engines used the same firing order
It doesn't need coolant. It's aircooled if you didn't already know that.
1-4-3-2 Good Luck
I wouldn't recommend it. Aircooled VW fuses are pointy ended, and the fusebox on an aircooled VW is designed with them in mind. Technically, you COULD replace the fusebox and use glass fuses, but if I was going to all that trouble I'd change to either the modern plastic fuses or to circuit breakers.