After reading the question for: "circuit 1 failure" I decided to post my experience with the related "circuit 2 Failure" read on:
On the dash there was a "circuit 2 failure message on my 1988 XJ40 or XJ6. After some poking around I noticed that the fuse for the Auxiliary Electric Fan on the radiator up front was blown. I replaced it, but after another drive was blown again. Some more poking around turned out that the Fan was in a rather sorry state of rust and barely turning thus creating a short and melting the fuse as soon as the relay will try to turn the circuit on. The fuse is not really labeled properly (and I don't really remember right now what position it was) However it is controlling the AC relay and all that grouping, Fan relay also. Checked the wires and fuse socket for signs of melting from somebody that might have put a higher amp fuse but found no problems. So I got a nice new looking Fan from the junkyard and the problem dissapeared and never I have seen it again...
The car had many electrical problems to the point that the Electronic display was starting to look like a Christmas tree dispaly, flashing through various varnings and driving me nuts. With patience and using the info I have found on the web I have eliminated them all, except for a bulb failure warning that is really for real and legitimate (I am missing the light on the rear left bumper corner) Strangely enough the warning goes away sometimes for hours at a time...
I don't own the original manual that came with the car, howver I think I have just about all documentation that is available for the XJ40 cars plus all the info on the web but nowhere there is any reference to any of the misterious "circuit n failure" warnings... All the other were somewhat clearer: (ABS) and so forth but these were a puzzle.Hope this helps somebody Cheers!!!
Reply from Olen1009...I just bought an '89 XJ6 with a circuit 2 failure and, assuming the manuals are similar, the original manual wouldn't help you. There is nothing in it about fuses except the locations of the 3 fuse panels. Period!
XJ40 door handles are made out of a very brittle metal that breaks easily. On the inside of the handle is a protruding arm into which is inserted a rod that is pushed down to release the latch when you pull up on the handle. The arm on your door handles is broken. You can buy rear handles on Ebay. Take care to get the proper year. 1988-1990 handles are smaller than 1991-1994 handles. The good news is that the rear handles are interchangable left to right, as they have the little arms at both sides of the handle. Kids and ham-handed buffoons do not mix well with XJ40 door handles.
I have found that a fuse was out on the right side kick panel. Once the fuse was replaced the failure warning went out.On the dash there was a "circuit 2 failure message on my 1988 XJ40 or XJ6. After some poking around I noticed that the fuse for the Auxiliary Electric Fan on the radiator up front was blown. I replaced it, but after another drive was blown again. Some more poking around turned out that the Fan was in a rather sorry state of rust and barely turning thus creating a short and melting the fuse as soon as the relay will try to turn the circuit on. The fuse is not really labeled properly (and I don't really remember right now what position it was) However it is controlling the AC relay and all that grouping, Fan relay also. Checked the wires and fuse socket for signs of melting from somebody that might have put a higher amp fuse but found no problems. So I got a nice new looking Fan from the junkyard and the problem dissapeared and never I have seen it again...The car had many electrical problems to the point that the Electronic display was starting to look like a Christmas tree dispaly, flashing through various varnings and driving me nuts. With patience and using the info I have found on the web I have eliminated them all, except for a bulb failure warning that is really for real and legitimate (I am missing the light on the rear left bumper corner) Strangely enough the warning goes away sometimes for hours at a time...I don't own the original manual that came with the car, howver I think I have just about all documentation that is available for the XJ40 cars plus all the info on the web but nowhere there is any reference to any of the misterious "circuit n failure" warnings... All the other were somewhat clearer: (ABS) and so forth but these were a puzzle. Hope this helps somebody Cheers!!!Hi! Circuit 1 is a 15 A fuse on the right under dash area. It burn because of a short circuit in the central consol it is one of the two cigar (under it the mass touch the +) Disconect it removing the center panel consol (it is under the "allume cigar")
The XJ bit comes from the in house project codes X - Experimental J - Jaguar 6 - 6 cylinder They just didnt rename it when they put it into production. The similar XJ12 has a, you guessed it, 12 cylinder engine. The code name for the 86-94 model was XJ40, followed by X300, X308, X350, etc. All of these were known as XJ`s though the 6 was dropped with the X300 as it had an 8 cylinder engine.
If its the 1994 XJ40 there are 2 nuts holding the tension on this system, the alternator is held in place by a threaded rod attached to the block (looking from the front its to the right of the alternator), loosen the nut on the open end of this rod and turn the inner nut until the required tension is reached and tighten the outer nut back up to secure it.
The Sovereign was produced for North America, in the XJ40 (1988-1994) XJ body style. The Sovereign was an upgrade over the standard XJ6 with a slightly upgraded interior, with details, such as movable rear reading lamps, and day lights in the back of the front headrests- and upgraded wheels, different side body molding, more standard features and depending on the year, rectangular headlamps as opposed to two round ones. The Sovereign is a step below the Vanden Plas, which has upgraded Connolly leather seating, lambswool floor mats, and airline style picnic trays for the rear seat passengers.
because maybe you car is either broken or the cold air is coming in from the outside With my car, it was Heater matrix clogged with radiator sealant. The workshop cleaned it and it's start working fine! Jaguars, depending on the model, have a seperate pump for the hot water for the heater. It's located on the left front inner wing, it is difficuult to see and remove. This is the most common problem on XJ40, X300, X305 and X308 shape jaguars. Same pump is used on X and S type too. Cost between £35-3&0 on ebay.
your window runner is off i have a gold well brown lol model 89 xj6/xj40 2.9 straight six and mine was doing same lost the rag one day stripped the door cart which took some time and popped it back on runner that was my instance but you my have to buy a new runner as i have heard of a few like this. hope this helped regards and good luck :)
Presuming this is on an early xj40, the brakes system operates at very high pressure as it also operates the self leveling suspension. Low pressure could be caused by faulty accumulator, esp if accompanied by ticking sound from start up as the pump tries to build pressure. It should clear by pressing the `clear` button on the computer, but will reappear if problem persists. Generally, not much to worry about but due to the safety critical nature i would seek a professional opinion immediately.
To remove the radio: Remove the ashtray by raising the armrest cover and removing the two screws at the rear of the ashtray. Slide the ashtray back and then lift it out. Be careful of the two front tabs, as you don't want to break them. Reach below the wood console, where the ashtray front tabs were inserted. Loosen and remove the two wing nuts. With a small, long flat bladed screwdriver, pry out the leather shifter surround. The leather shifter surround has a center chrome retaining ring, the leather surround, and then finally a black plastic surround. The chrome retaining ring has 3-4 tabs which are locked in below the leather surround. It depends on the year of the Jaguar. Probably the 95 has three, but maybe four. They should be at the front and rear of the trim piece (2 front and 1 back, or 2 front and two back) but I've seen then on the sides. The point is, you have to be careful with the screwdriver and find the tabs. The screwdriver should be slid between the leather and the retainer. Pull upwards on the retainer gently, and as you loosen the tabs, it will come out. Remove the leather surround. Once the chrome retainer has been removed, it should be easy to work it out of the console. Loosen the black trim ring gently as it has tabs as well, but they are visible once the leather trim has been removed. Lift it upwards out of the wood trim and pull it to the side out of the way. You don't need to disconnect the wires, just lay the black trim to the side. Lift the rear of the wood console trim and gently, gently slide it back and up. It will try to hang on the leather console, and can be difficult. Patience is important, as the walnut on the ski slope cracks easy (really easy). Once the wood console trim (ski slope) is removed, you should have a row of screws up the side of the center control panel, where the radio and AC controls are. There are four to six on each side, depending on what Jaguar used at the time, as the 95 cars mechanically are somewhat of a blend of the XJ40 and the XJ300. Remove these screws, and note any spacers that were behind them. These spacers get lost quickly, and cause the ski slope to sit awkwardly on the console. The radio will slide forwards once these screws are removed. Remove the radio harness and the antenna lead. As the books say, assembly is reverse of removal. Good luck, and let me know if you have questions. If you are replacing the radio, let me know as I have the harness wiring codes and can help you with that as well. Thanks, Dave
The question is rather vague... You need to ask more to the point: which door is it and what panel you want taken upper or lower :) I assume it is one of the front doors. You need to open the door othervise it is impossible and you will damage the panels. To open the door: Remove the square black trim cover in the middle of the inside door pull chrome surround. There is a screw underneath. take the screw out. This will allow you to remove the woden strip by sliding it sideways toward the front of the car. It is held by two metallic clips shaped like an elongated hooked "C" . Toward the front of the upper trim you will see a large hole where the inside latch mechanism is housed you can use some needle nose plyers to grab the cable and pull thus releasing the dorr mechanism and opening the door. On the other end of the panel there are some smaller holes with same plyers or a wire hook or simmilar hook shaped tool you can acess and pull upward the locking lever that is slightly below the holes. There are severall levers inside I think that if you managed to grab any and pull up you can open the door. If you had a more specific question I probably would have a better answer... Just curious what exactly is that happend and which door has the problem... I have three of these XJ40 or XJ6-XJ12 a 1988; 1993 and a 1994 XJ12 Cheers !!!
Make sure you have the correct key there are two usually the one with the green plastic fob is the valet key and the Black fob is the normal key. You will need the regular key to unlock valet mode a good locksmith could probibly get the cut code from jaguar and cut a new key or call your dealer for a new key. Due to a lack of use you will often find the the master key will fail to open the trunk. If the FOB is not working and you have reset the Valet switch, then your only alternative is to open per the methods described below. Read through the descriptions below and see if it helps answer your particular problem. The Valet key will not open the trunk. The XJ6 X300 series the trunk lock switch is located left of the steering wheel on the instrument panel dash. On the XJ6 (1988-90) no internal trunk switch. On the XJ6 (1990-1994) commonly called the XJ40, the trunk switch is localed on the glove box. "Removing the Backseat" method is not advised since it involves removing the gas tank. You can get a new key cut at the the Jag dealer if you have the VIN # and proof of ownership. But it will cost you about $65. The key type is called "Tibbe" and make sure its the Master key (Black) not the valet key (green), since the valet key will not open the trunk. You should note the if you have not used the master key to access your trunk much, you may find it very stiff. This is very common. If this is the case do be very careful not to over force the key. Try the alternative method below shown in the website. The "trunk release switch" is located on the left side of the steering wheel on the instrument panel dash . If that does not work and often this is the case because of breaks in the wiring harness that often occur inside the trunk at the "right hand side" hinge. If you look carefully after you get the trunk/boot open again you will see where the harness snakes under the RHS hinge. There is an alternative method that is illustrated at the following web site that gives full instructions on how to open the trunk when all else fails by removing the license plate.
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