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You need to switch the red wire with the yellow wire and it will not lose the memory any more. One wire is coming from the ignition and the other from the battery directly.
Yes, the 2001 ignition switch for a 2000 Chevrolet Tracker will fit just fine. Other years the switch fits are 1999 to 2004.
It is controlled by the ignition switch. Other than that I am unfamiliar with what you might be referring to.
The large post in the center of the solenoid is for the main lead coming from the battery, the two 12 guage wires coming from the alternator, and one side of the momentary switch used for the start circuit (usually coming from the ignition switch) Since this post is always hot, you can also use it to drive other circuits that need full battery voltage. The small post closest to the engine is for the other side of the momentary switch.
check for a fuel pump relay and make sure there is current coming from the ignition switch.
Sometimes the Steering wheel lock will rest on the locking mechanism and not let you turn the ignition switch. Try turning the wheel one way or the other to relieve the pressure while tuning the ignition switch. If this does not work then you may either have a worn out ignition swtch, Key, or there is a mechanical failure of the switch.
You know your ignition switch has gone out when you turn the key and there is no click or any noise at all. If there is a click or other audible noise it is probably the spark plug or something of that sort.
Not a valid assumption... ignition switch could be defective. To check which is bad... There are several places on the solenoid of interest;. There are heavy wires... one long to the battery, the other short to the starter motor itself. There are thin wires ( one or two)... If two, one goes to ground. The other is the lead from the ignition switch. If you jumper from the battery to the heavy lead, and it starts (cranks) then the started motor itself is OK and you could have EITHER a bad solenoid or a bad ignition switch. If you jumper from the battery to the thin wire from the ignition switch and it cranks, then its a bad ignition switch ( or wire to it). If it does not crank...bad solenoid. If it does crank when you jumper the thin wire, then get a short piece of wire and climb under the dashboard. At the back of the ignition switch connect the wire between the heavy wire (often purple or red) and the terminal on the ignition switch with only one wire on it. If it cranks...bad switch...If it doesn't crank...wiring problem. If both of the other switch terminals have only one wire (rare), then the one to jumper is the one furtherst from the heavy wire IN THE DIRECTION OF ROTATION of the switch as you go from off to on to start."
It is very possibly the ignition switch but there are certainly other possibilities as well. In any case, you'll need to learn some electrical diagnostic skills. The ignition switch appears faulty.
Basically I started my car, backed up and it died when I went to go forward. I put gas in, got a boost, and neither worked. I checked the fuses, and I'm thinking it's the ignition switch. I went to my mechanics and there was smoke coming from the keyhole, and a little from the bottom dash thingy. All the other lights are working, radio, heat etc. I got a guy to check it out an he doesn't see any burnt wires anywhere else, so would a burnt out ignition switch cause my car to die and not start?
There is a recall on '97 sunfires ignition switches. My car wouldn't start and after trying it several times smoke started coming from the ignition column. they will install a relay switch w/ your ignition switch to convert high voltage away from it. If it doesn't start and you continually try it or hold it back too long it will start to burn as mine did A Pontiac dealership fixed it for free but I had to fight them on the towing costs. I would do a search on the recall or call a Pontiac/GM dealership and they can tell you if it goes towards yours... you! Also check for other recalls such as the PCM recall.
There is no main relay. The power runs from the battery to the starter where the primary power lead crosses the engine bay to join the alternator lead before splitting to the Hi speed blower relay and (fusible link) thru the bulkhead where it divides off to the ignition switch, headlight switch, horn relay and fusebox. The ignition switch supplies "keyed" hot while the other branches are always hot. The always hot circuit coming out of the fusebox is mainly orange.