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Bad switch? Bad motor? Check to see if you are getting power to motor--if so bad motor -- if not may be bad switch Is it the driver's door, or one of the other 3? If it's not the driver's door, try moving the window with either the switch on that door or the on the driver's door. If you have a bad switch, you may be able to move the window with the other switch. If it's the driver's door, you will have to remove the switchassembly and start testing. If I had to take a guess, I'd guess that it's the switch and not the motor, but that's a guess. massvolvoman
On a UK car it is behind the driver's side front body panel. I had to partly remove the front bumper and the panel to replace it.
well iam a retard you have take off the door panel to get to the motor but to replace the window switch get a flathead sd and stick it under the front of the switch holder and lift up
in the door
Replacing 2002 Dodge power window motor driver side
I looked at www. motorcraft . com ( no spaces ) and it lists four different part numbers for the four power window motors
$950 from dealer and $600 from local ma and pa shop
There could be two causes for this problem. The first being the fuse to that window has blown and the other is window motor is getting weak.
Remove the inside door panel. Push the window track. Upward, until the window is completely closed. Lock the window linkage in place, so the window will not fall down.
it may be off the track, remove inside panel to check
I have a 1999 ford contour and just replaced the front driver window regulator and motor the other day. You need to take off the inner panel of the door by unscrewing all areas. You will probably have to unscrew the 4 bolts to the window regulator (which is the cable that moves the window up/down when you run the window motor. The motor is connect to this). There are 3 screw to the wind motor connect to the door frame to be unscrewed (middle right side of doorfram by speaker). The motor just unscrews from the regulator and screw the new one in. Go to a salvage yard for the part (I paid $10 at a U-Pull-It salvage yard for the regulator and motor vs $118 at Auto Zone).