Most receptacles are wired in parallel to separate circuits in household wiring. trace the circuit back until you find a 'live' plug. From that point to the next outlet, there could be a loose, bad or unhooked wire. before you go removing receptacles, be sure to pull the breaker (shut the breaker off). All wire connections should be tight.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized
IF YOU ARE NOT REALLY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
No.It'll overload and fail just about immediately.It's possible - but not recommended - to run two 110 v heaters in series from a 220v circuit.
It is difficult to believe that anything has a 100% efficiency rating, even an electric heater. Electricity is very good at producing heat. Any loss of efficiency would be in how much heat is lost to the surrounding equipment and building structure in the immediate vicinity of the heater, which may be in the basement, as opposed to heating the air in living or working areas which is probably what you want. Electricity is very expensive when compared to other forms of heat, such as natural gas.
A BOD shaker incubator is designed to maintain a temperature of 20 degrees C. The BOD incubator has a compressor that works as a heater and a cooler maintaining the temperature at a precise 20 degrees.
I think you mean "what is the voltage of the electric power distribution in US houses" It's called 240 volt single phase, which is a misnomer, as it is actually two phases of 120 volts each. Most outlets are connected to one of those phases and supply 120 volts to appliances. Some appliances that require more power connect to both phases for 240 volts.Addendum to the answer:The answer above might look a bit vague, the voltage in the US is 120V (same as Canada, most of Europe is 220-240 V), the electrical frequency is 60 Hz. Plugs used are A or B.
US homes use a 240 volt single phase 'Edison' system. It is a 3-wire (4 with the ground) system. Phase to phase measures 240v, while each phase to neutral measures 120v.
Low coolant? Thermostat not opening? Control cable not working? Plugged heater core? Heater core "airbound"? Low coolant? Thermostat not opening? Control cable not working? Plugged heater core? Heater core "airbound"?
Low coolant? Bad thermostat? Heater core plugged, restricted, or airbound? Temperature control cable not working?
Heater Airbound? Heater control cable not working? Heater core plugged?
I have found the common causes for this are, a plugged heater core, and a poorly working water pump. The radiator could also be plugged.
Low coolant? Bad thermostat? Heater core plugged,restricted or airbound? Heater control cable or valve not working?
If the tub is not getting hot water the issue is probably with the hot water heater. The hot water heater may have tripped a breaker or the pilot light went out.
Low Coolant? Bad thermostat? Heater core plugged or restricted? Heater core airbound? Heater control cable not working?
Low coolant level, or a plugged heater core.
Low coolant? Bad thermostat? Heater core plugged or airbound? Heat control cable not working?
Low coolant? Thermostat not opening? Heater core restricted or plugged? Heater core airbound? Water pump not circulating coolant? Temperature control not working?
could be thermostat or heater fan if you can hear all the speeds on the blower motor working then it could be your thermostat but your heater core might be plugged as well
If you are absolutely, positively sure that your coolant level is not low......then your heater core could be plugged. Or the control that turns the coolant flow on/off to the heater isn't working. Make sure the control is working, the flush the radiator. Should cure the problem.