Most common problem is the BCM (Body Control Module). Located behind the glove box.
May be a BCM glitch or the rear trunk latch there is a recall from gm about the rear hatch latch
If its like my 2003 Expy, the relay for the rear wiper motor also controls the rear hatch lock
You open the back hatch door and pull the panel away from the latch and push down on the lever to the lock the lock will then pop open and you can shut the hatch
By taking your key and sticking it into the lock near the hatch an turning.
Isn't there a key lock that releases it?
check fuse Im serious it happened to me
The lock actuator is in the rear door, the panel will need to be removed. When the panel is removed you will see the actuator bolted to the door frame. Not to hard to replace.
To remove the rear hatch door panel in order to fix the lock on a Subaru Outback you will need a Phillips-head screwdriver, small flat screwdriver, trim pry tool, and tack puller. Using these items you need to remove the push clips and pry the trim from the hatch.
You can get them at the dealer. The entire window and door mechanisim is all one piece.
Solution -- Disable Rear Hatch SensorAnswered my own question -- If you ever encounter a "Door Ajar" sensor and it's not one of the four doors, it's probably the hatch back sensor. There is an unseen sensor behind the hatch panel which grounds to the mounting plate of the hatch lock assembly. Test the theory by applying pressure to the outside of the hatch back lock. If there's a short circuit, often the extra pressure will close the open circuit. Also try adjusting the hatch lock striker hook backward and forward to adjust closure tightness (12mm socket and three bolts to loosen/tighten).To fix the problem permanently (without major hassles), try the following:1. Remove rear hatch panel -- Two plastic screw fasteners, the rest are simple panel pop rivots. You may need to remove the two screws securing the window release lock plastic cover, too.2. With the interior hatch panel removed, close the hatch.3. Open the rear window.4. Standing at the rear driver's side of the hatch, fish your left hand through to the back of the hatch lock mounting plate.5. Locate the pigtail connection attached to the mounting plate: One ground (wire) connected to the mounting plate, the other (red w/stripe) connected to a wire connector just fore of the locking mechanism.6. Disconnect the pigtail.7. Tape off the open pigtail and secure to prevent rattling.8. Reassemble hatch panel.This should not affect the rear hatch power lock, rear window release, rear wiper, rear defogger or Tire Carrier Ajar sensor. It's simply a way to disable the 5th and only unseen "Door Ajar" sensor which could short and cause such a problem.Food for thought.Notes:1. This was the solution for the floor lighting frequently staying illuminated when all doors were clearly closed on a 1995 Nissan Pathfinder.2. The pigtail mentioned in the solution is about 6" to 8" from the latch mechanism. Mine was covered in gray foam to minimize rattle noise and was somewhat hard to see inside the dark rear hatch door area. It was also against the "inside" side of the sheet metal. I'm telling you this because I was about to Cut the Red/White wire and make a new ground by attaching it the metal on the door with a self tapping screw and new wire terminal end. I'm never in favor of cutting any factory wiring when you can disconnect a harness. There are lot of reasons why cutting is not the best option if you have another option to choose from.3. The existence of this problem was discovered because the alarm system was going off during all hours of the day and night. It turns out that the alarm sounding problem happens to 1987 to 1995 Nissan Pathfinders when the battery is discharged
Check your rear accuator. It is a black box with a brown rod on it. It is located underneath the rear hatch paneling. Hook up 12 volts to it after its out and see if the accuator moves. Don't put the voltage on it very long either.
The T-handle or lock mechanism inside the door is damaged.