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It's in the fuel tank, attached to the fuel pump assembly. Before you replace it, test it, to verify it's the sending unit, not the gauge in the dash.
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: Before you do any work in the area of the fuel tank, do yourself, your hair, your neighbors and the local fire department a big favor: disconnect the battery and get the tank as close to empty as you can. Keep the gas cap OPEN, so that gas vapors do not build up in the tank. (Remember, no matter what Hollywood would have you believe, liquid gas does not explode...gas VAPOR does.) Also, do NOT use tools that can spark (meaning, no steel) when working with the fuel lines, pump and tank.
TO TEST THE FUEL LEVEL SENDING UNIT: Unplug the electrical connector from the fuel pump assembly. Use an ohmmeter to test the resistance between the top two pins. A full tank should show about 170 ohms, and an empty tank should show about 15 ohms. Anything outside of this indicates a faulty sending unit.
TO REPLACE THE FUEL LEVEL SENDING UNIT (OR FUEL PUMP): With the car high up on jacks, and the tank nearly empty, release the pressure on the fuel pump by opening the fuel cap and unplugging the inertia switch. (It's in the trunk, behind the carpet on the driver's side.)
Under the car, you will see the fuel tank attached to the trunk pan with straps. On the front of the tank, you will see the fuel lines and electrical connector attached to the pump. To disconnect the fuel lines, you will need a duckbill (a tool that disconnect quick-connect fittings.) Check your fuel lines and be careful...rusty fuel lines can break easily.
Next, you will need a brass punch and rubber mallet to remove the fuel pump retaining ring. (remember, do NOT use steel: no screwdrivers or hammers. You are working with gas fumes, you need something that can NOT create a spark.) Put the brass punch against one of the three tabs and hammer it counter clockwise. It should spin pretty easily and come loose. (If you didn't empty the tank, you will now get a face full of gas.) Remove the ring and work the fuel pump out.
You can test the fuel level sending unit again, on the workbench to verify it is broken. With the sending unit running $50-60, and a whole fuel pump (including sending unit) running $100-120, it's probably worthwhile to go ahead and change the whole pump at the same time. If you you re-use the fuel pump be sure to clean the screen before you put it all back together. A dirty screen will equal a new fuel pump in a month.
Replace the fuel pump by reversing the procedure. Reset the inertia switch, if it tripped, by pressing the button.
Again, be SAFE! Gas fumes have been known to cause bad things to happen to people without any warning. And you aren't tough if you're dead. ;)
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