Want this question answered?
24 volts
Almost always 120 volts
A current source ideally should be with an internal impedance of 0 zero. So even if the output is zero volts current can flow.
It depends on the current being drawn by the computer's components. The voltage will remain constant at 230V and should have a maximum amperage rating labeled on the power supply. Multiply the volts times the max amp rating to find out the max wattage that the power supply can handle. The watts actually being used is probably lower than the rated max (and should be).
when the wall thermostat closes a contact (at the set temperature), 24 volts is passed through a concave metal disk in the sequencer. The current heats the disk expanding the metal till it pops to a convex position pushing a plastic insulator rod, attached to a metal bar that closes the 208v or 240v circuit activating one of the heating elements or furnaces fan
927 cfm
Yes it is possible. Check the fuse on the control board. Does anything work? Do you have 24 volts between R-C?
24 volts
Almost always 120 volts
For the furnace Watts = Amps x Volts Divide watts by 1000 to get 4.8KW.
an electric furnace runs off of 208/230 Volts while a typical gas furnace runs off of 120 also a gas furnace will have a valve for the gas relay where the gas enters the furnace.
The electric furnace operates on 240 volts so a two pole breaker is needed.
Furnaces that cycle on and off frequently like yours does can have a few possible reasons that may or may not be part of the thermostat. A digital thermostat may not be the reason, but an old thermostat with a mercury switch inside which moves when the bimetal strip heats and cools down is a possibility. If the thermostat has an electrical problem (only 24 volts) could be causing the bimetal strip heat up fast, simulating the room getting warm. Another possibility is inside the furnace heat exchanger area. There is a safety device which turns off the furnace and fan when it gets hotter than it is supposed to, so you don't burn down your building. (this supposes that you have a forced air furnace which you did not mention or not) If you have a wall heater, it has a similar type of high temperature cut out. These temperature cut out devices are not very expensive and can be replaced fairly easily. Have someone just check the wiring of the thermostat by unscrewing it from the wall to see if there are any problems with the wires as well as verifying that it is or is not a mercury bulb controlled device.
Electric furnaces are rated in Kilowatts. The following formula will let you figure it out. Watts = amps x volts. For eg. a 10 Kw furnace draws 10000 watts. amps = watts/volts. 10000/240 = 41.6 amps. If your furnace differs from this example, just plug in your wattage and you will have your answer.
It's not clear if this question refers to an air conditioning (a/c) thermostat, or a thermostat that uses AC (alternating current). However, most thermostats use DC (direct current) voltage, not AC, especially if you're certain that it should be receiving 24 volts. When using a VOM (volt/ohm meter), always set the range to HIGHER than what you are measuring. In my experience, two typical DC ranges on a VOM are 20 volts and 100 volts -- so in this case, you would set the range to 100 volts. (Also make sure the meter is set to read DC volts, not AC volts.) Then touch the probes on the meter to both ends of the thermostat wires (or the terminals to which they are connected). The meter should indicate the voltage. (If the meter shows a negative number, simply reverse the connections.)
Your car should produce about 14.4 volts from the alternator when the engine is running. If it does not produce anything over 12 volts, your alternator is not charging and you need to get it repaired or replaced.
In a standard transformer, the ratio of input volts to output volts remains constant.