If the driver/freewheel isn't too badly worn you can keep using it even if you replace the sprocket.
Sounds like the freewheel (the clutch prom). You need a special tool to remove it in order to be able to replace it with a new one you can find the tool at a shop near you most of all have them
calculating sprocket RPM is very easy if you know what the RPM of the drive sprocket is. If you know that then it is a simple fraction problem. If you make the drive gear the numerator or the top part of the fraction and the driven gear the denominator or the bottom part of the fraction (DRIVE/DRIVEN) I.E. if the drive sprocket has 25 teeth and your driven sprocket has 100 teeth (25/100) that will reduce to (1/4) or a 4:1 ratio. So if your drive sprocket is spinning at 1000 RPM then your driven sprocket will be spinning at 250 RPM. You can plug your specific sprocket tooth count into that equation and come up with the right answer.
this question doesn't make sense, because a "cassette-style hub" has a cassette, not a freewheel. if it's a cassette, surly sells a conversion that allows you to fix a cassette. if it's a freewheel, you can do it by threading on a track cog and a lockring. only problem is the lockring and cog are both threaded the same way, so if you break hard with the pedals there is a risk of the cog coming loose. A proper fixed-gear hub has a smaller, reverse threaded bit where the lockring attaches, solving this problem.
Usually what happens is that the chain elongates under wear, which forces the rollers farther apart. Depending on set-up this can then cause the chain to ride higher up on the teeth of the sprocket, eventually to the point where it can jump over the top of the teeth. On other set-ups the elongated chain will wear out the flanks of the teeth to the point where their angle can no longer retain the chain. Your best bet of fixing it is to have both the chain and the freewheel replaced. Chain and the rear sprocket pack wear together, replacing only one of them often don't fix the problem. If it's really bad you might also have th replace the chainwheel(s), the sprocket(s) up by the pedals.
If it's a bike with external gears the most usual reason is that the derailers haven't got their limit screws set right, so when the rider attempts to change gears the derailers push the chain right off. For Single-speed bikes the most common reason is that the chain is too slack. With too much slack the chain is free to move sideways enough to come off the sprockets if the bike is jostled around hard enough..
Yes, UNLESS the belt pulley is frozen and doesn't revolve (i.e.: freewheel) easily. If the compressor simply does not work properly, or is out of Freon the activation switch will not turn it on.
the timing belt may have jumped a sprocket check all the timing belt marks to assure proper tinning.
well, the price of the parts are cheap. the labor is the problem, its around 8-10hrs of labor, so you're looking at around 500-700 dollars.
looking at u
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Go to the living quaters on the far left of the island and jump on the crab. he will give you sully's key. go to sullys paraphernalia and use the steam battery (trash can(main island)) on the door and figure out the math problem. once in side go to the left and ring the bell to awaken sprocket, he will then follow you around. go to the farthest right on the island and use the crab on the hot hub and sprocket will use the water in the crab and cool down the hub. that is the only use for the crab.
Tje microscope solve your problem by looking into small things