By far the most valuable is the ultra-rare 1911. One sold at auction in 2003 for just over one million dollars.
Click the right mouse button and click back. Then choose your bike again and you will be at the next level. Hope this helps.
Also you can click the the M button on your keyboard and you will be on the next level
Consider a used one. There is more value there, and you won't be paying for "hype" sold by new equipment manufacturers. New bikes are nice, but think this through. You will have to shop smart, of course, and some questions arise. Grab a seat and lift the tab on a cold Pepsi. You gonna bust a move on a 20" unit or go cruiser class with the 24" wheels? How old are you and how tall are you? It makes a bit of difference. And what are you planning on doing with the bike? Racing? Tricks and stunts? Transportation to and from school on something that rocks? Or just some styling around the neighborhood? These will have a lot to do with what you zero in on. For $400 Aus (max) you should get a killer bike. I'd expect a 3-piece crank (and a good one, not one of those 2-ton monsters of solid steel). A cartridge bottom bracket, too. Sealed bearings, the works. And with a nice straight frame and fork. Few if any scratches. Certainly nothing that's been thrashed. Maybe aluminum, maybe steel. Maybe polished, chrome or painted. Some bike shops sell used bikes. They can do an evaluation on any bike for you, too. Why not ask in advance what their rates are for a pre-sale evaluation of a privately owned bike? Hey, we're just gettin' started, dude. If you're gonna look at used bikes, ask for the history of the bike before you look it over closely. Let the owner tell you what the bike has been used for and how long. You will compare what he says about how the bike was used against what you see when you look at the bike later. Listen carefully, and ask a few simple questions for clarification. There are things to look for. Take inventory, and start by flipping the bike to check the wear on the tires. Do the front and rear tires match? Mismatched tires mean wear or damage to a tire and the installation of a replacement. Does having a tire replaced square with the history you took? After checking the rubber, try giving the wheels a spin and looking at them. How do they look? Hold a popsicle stick against a seat stay or chain stay and let it just barelytouch the rim. Same on the front, but put your stick on the fork. Does the rim rub gently all the way around? Or, if you leave a small gap, does that gap remain constant through the whole rotation of the wheel? It should on a tuned wheel. The rims shouldn't be scratched, and they better not be dinged. If the wheel is true, are all the spokes tensioned, and evenly so? If the wheel is out of true, the spokes may have some loose one in their number. A wheel that is just a bit out of true can be trued by adjusting the spokes. That's what they're for. But think about it. Wheel truing is done with a jig and by an experienced hand. Hubs should be of some kind of alloy. And get some with sealed cartridge bearings if you can. Leave the cones and loose ball bearings to the geeks and freaks. Wheels (and their spokes and hub sets) are money on a bike. They are arguably the single most important part of the machine. You can get burned in any kind of competition if you're ridin' phat with your 3-piece and an aluminum frame and bunk wheels when someone with a steel frame, an Ashtabula crank and tuned wheels rolls on you. Oh, and in case you didn't get it, an Ashtabula crank is the "old school" name for the one-piece style crank made in the U.S. by the Ashtabula folks. School's still in. Quit lookin' at the clock. Spin the pedals. Do they spin freely and evenly? You can replace pedals and they don't cost a fortune, plus you can get a set suited to your riding and your taste. But the pedals are an indication to what kind of treatment the bike had. Are they bent? If so, the bike may have been hammered during use. Lots of easy miles put a bit of wear on a bike, but just a few miles of hard use ruin a bike. Use the pedals as a guidepost. And look at the outer ends of them to see how scratched or ground down from heavy abrasion they appear. Are there "new" pedals on a "used" bike? They have have been replaced. Move on to the chain, chain ring and cog. The bike's still upside down from your wheel evaluation, isn't it? So how does the chain look? Is it clean? Abraded? Take a paper towel (or not, if you're a tough guy) and grip the chain in the middle and give it a slight twist. You'll be twisting it "around" its direction of travel to see how much its worn. The more it twists, the more it's worn. New chains don't like to twist. Roll the crank slowly and stand behind the bike to look along the chain line. Are the crank arms staying "in line" as the go 'round? Both of them? Is the chainring true? Does it stay "flat" as you turn the cranks? After you stop turning the cranks, use your paper towel to wipe a few of the exposed teeth of the chainring and the cog? How much wear do you see? A little? A lot? You looked at pedal ends, now look at the handlebar ends, or, rather, the ends of the handlebar grips. Are they good looking, torn a bit or missing entirely exposing the bar ends? Grips are not expensive, but they tell you things like the pedals do. Take note. Are the ends of the axles unmarked, or do they look they look they've been ground on? That plays to how the bike was treated, like pedal end wear and handlebar grip end wear. How's the seat? A tear means wear. That's a starting checklist. Your bike shop can help you with more things to look for, or can do the looking for a small fee. Shopping for a used unit can save you some bucks and get you a lot more bike for the same money. Don't be clowned by the big ads the manufacturers post about this bike or that bike being the "newest technology" or the killer machine ridden by Jack "the Hammer" Hammersmith (a made up name). Bike manufacturers sponsor events and sell bikes. Of course you can't hope to win the big races without their newest bike. Yeah, right. Think about the options you have. Brand name isn't always the end all, be all that some say it is. And you can get a used well known brand name bike for less than your maximum limit as regards price.
Certainly. Maybe not all, but definitely some. A race bike is unlikely to have a gyro/detangler, so you probably can't do bar spins. A race bike is also likely to be lighter/weaker than dedicated trick bikes, which will make it less suitable for some tricks.
Depends on what you mean and what the different bikes are like.
If you really mean hub:
The hub is the center part of the wheel, that holds the wheel axle and the spokes, and in some cases the brake rotor.
Most 26" MTBs these days use dic brakes, while BMXes mostly use rim brakes. And to be able to fit a brake rotor to the finished wheel, you need to start with a disc brake hub, which a BMX hub is unlikely to be.
But using a rim brake BMX hub to build into a rim brake MTB wheel - no problem
Also, most MTBs use 32 spokes, while for BMX, 36 spoke is more common. You need to match hub spoke count to rim spoke count to avoid complicated builds.
If you mean wheel:
BMX regular size is 20" against MTB regular size 26". You'll get all sorts of troubles by dropping 6" from the wheel diameter. The bike will handle differently, and the pedals will drop a lot closer to the ground.
For just riding back and forth to school or the store, just fine.
If you're planning on doing anything more risky than just riding it, invest in something a little more pricy.
It was done in 1989
Because they are for stunts and ramps and a lot of people such as me take interest in that because they are fun and bmx's are also a fashion item/ they are "cool".
1) undo wheel nuts 2) hook chain tensioner onto wheel axle and over open end of drop-out 3) tighten chain tensioner until chain tension is OK, spin crank and check for tight spots 4) put wheel nut back and tighten them 5) spin crank and check for tight spots
There's really no telling, it depends on what size your sprocket and driver/freewheel is, and the length of your chainstays.
Chains are always bought a little too long, and then cut to size using a chain breaker tool.
It's a size measurement, taken from the center of the seat tube(the tube that the seat post goes into), along the top tube, and to the center of the head tube(the tube that the fork goes through at the front of the bike).
I can't find mine either I have a 46S7D14053. I know the first year Venom's were made was 1995 and still being made if it helps. Try taking pics and comparing to each year at this site http://bmxmuseum.com/bikes/diamondback, I'm attempting to find mine know.
I possibly narrowed mine down to being made in 1996. Your best references will be the "A" frame around the seat whether the seat tube is sitting on a plate or welded into the top tube of the frame, and the crank shape. After that I found the drop tube from the whole frame from 97' on is bigger than the top tube. From 96' down they're both the same size.
If you want to use your bike to get around with, then a geared bike with bigger wheels is better. It will be faster, less fatiguing and offer greater rider comfort. But if you want to do BMX style riding, with jumps and tricks and that, then a BMX is a better choice.
BMX bikes have rim brakes, they work by pinching the rim between two pads. The surface of the rim will wear away eventually, there's not really any way around that. Best you can do is keep the pads and rims clean from any embedded grit.
If you're really stubborn, you could have a BMX modified to take disc brake wheels, but it'd take some serious metal working skills.
Or you can replace the rear wheel with a wheel that has a coaster braked hub.
If the bike is ever ridden on public streets/in traffic removing brakes is a really bad idea.
But if you insist, this is the general instructions on how to do it:
Unclamp brake wires from brake arms, remove crimped-on end caps, pull wires out. Follow cable from brake towards handle bar to locate any other place they're connected, undo those too.
Unbolt brakes from bike. Pull grips off handlebar and remove brake levers, put grips back on.
Removing (parts of) the detangler requires pulling the fork, which is another issue.
Depends on the type of crank, there are a couple of options available. Most have square taper cranks, in which case you need a special tool called a crank puller to get them off. These too are available in a couple of different versions, so you need to do your homework to get the right kind.
Yes Bmx Bikes Are easy to pedal because it is not heavy and there are many of gases inside of it and many of taes on it
You start off with a light frame, then you get a light fork, light wheels, light tires, light bars, light seat post, and light cranks.
To get a light bike, you really have to use light parts through and through, and it's cheaper to buy a light bike already to start with than to lighten a heavy bike piece by piece.
normally a light street bmx bike on average around 10kg but can go down to 8kg, with Ti parts (titanium) most stock bikes com out at around 12-14kg.. but anything upto the 16kg in pounds i would sau 19 to 27 is good any higher than 27 is a tank lol
Kids all over the world have been riding and jumping bikes for as long as there have been bikes available to them. But it became organised and structured in the US first.
Get a bike, start riding. When you get decent on that, contact a club, join some races.
Hope toget spotted by a team recruiter.
There is defiantly money in BMX from sponsor's, competitions etc. But to be able to do this you must be EXTREMELY good at BMX.
ME gusta andar en mi bicicleta
Gusto de andar en mi bicicleta
Me gusta montar mi bicicleta