Many vehicles have a lock that prevents the transmission from being shifted into gear accidentally. If the transmission won't shift when you press on the brake, it's probably either the switch on the brake pedal, or the solenoid that releases the shifter. My 2004 Honda Odessey did the same thing. I figured it out when I noticed that the horn was also out, and the brake lights wouldn't work. There is a 20Amp "Stop" fuse located in the main under-hood fuse box on the left side of the engine compartment. If that fuse blows, it takes power from the horn and the brake switch on the brake pedal. Without that brake switch, the shift lock solenoid also looses power and you can't shift out of Park. If you can't replace the fuse, you can manually release the shift lever lock by prying off that little rectangular cover on the top of the steering wheel shaft housing. Once the little cover is off, you can insert a key or small screwdriver into the slot and press down to release the shift lever. The owners manual describes how to do this. Just check the index under "Shift lever locked". The manual says to turn the car off, and then use a key to release the shift lever. Once the lever is out of the "Park" position, move the lever down to "Neutral" and start the car. If you can't replace that Stop fuse you will have to do this every time you put the shifter back in Park. Hpwever, you should not drive the car because you will have no break lights!!!
I have had the same problem with my 2002 Buell Blast, where when you shift to first, or down shift at all, the shift lever comes loose and just hangs. What I did to fix this, is loosen the hex-nut and bolt that go through the shift lever, and remove the shift lever itself. What is probably happening is oil is seeping in between the shift lever openining and the primary. Clean the openinig on the shift lever, and the spool it attaches to. If the hex-bolt is in poor condition, pick up a new one, or if it's in alright condition (not stripped) clean it. Simply set the shift lever where you want it, and retighten the hex-bolt. Tighten it a fair bit, using a lever to get extra leverage on it. Buells are notorious for leaking oil, so start with that. Worked for me...
The year, make and model info would help.
The year, make and model vehicle would help otherwise, the lever should stay where ever you shift it to.
The year, make and model vehicle would help but in some vehicles the shift cable runs under the drivers side carpet and gets damaged from constant moisture resulting in a sticky, binding shift lever.
Sounds to me like the neutral safety switch may be the culptrip. Not exactly sure where it is. Is this a floor shift or column shift? Will the engine try to start? in other words, does the starter engage? If not, then I would suspect the neutral safety switch. If the starter engages, but the engine won't start, then probably another issue.
You typically can't bypass the starter - that is, after all, what actually turns the engine over to start the vehicle. If you have a manual shift vehicle, it is possible to roll start the vehicle. The key needs to be in the on position. You would roll the vehicle while it's in neutral, jump in, and shift it into gear.
Check the stop lights - shift interlock is usually the same circuit - check fuse Move the ignition switch to 1st position (unlock) with engine off - then shift to neutral to start vehicle and then you will be able to shift to "D or R"
on the 1987 model which I believe is the same operation, you would push the button next to the parking brake lever on the left lever down when lever is fully released. then while squeezing the lever, shift 1 position down from nuetral.
A lot of vehicles require that the brake pedal be pressed. Another one if shift lever is on column is that you have to pull up on lever; if on the floor should be a push button or a pull lever or just the requirement to press on brake pedal. Otherwise a problem with the linkage.
try a little wd 40
I can't tell why but "I" would start by changing the Transaxle fluid & filter and then see what happens.....
From the neutral position, pull the shift lever toward you then down, this would be frist greer, aka first gear.
This could be caused by a multitide of problems, but I would check for a bad or loose ground strap on the engine first. It is normal to have to shift to park or neutral to start your engine. If it is only neutral and not park, I would start troubleshooting the safety switch.
The year, make, model and engine info would help.
I can't say all cars have this, but a lot have a release at the gear shift on a floor shift. There may be a small cap over a pin you push in, some have a button on the top of the console. I would think having the key on or in the run position so that the radio worked and stepping on the brake would allow you to shift.
You would need to take the shift cable off at the transmission and move the lever manually.
That engine needs fuel, compression and spark to start and run. You are missing one of those.
NO it should not start but if does I would call it a miracle.
Many ways but the most obvious would be a 4WD shift lever inside the truck. If there is a level to shift it into 4wd then it is 4wd. No lever and it is 2wd. You can also just look under the front of the van. If you see a differential like the one in the rear it is 4wd. No differential and it is 2wd.
the linkage between the trans and shifter is what i would check first. also, there is a switch that prevents the car from starting unless its in N or P
There is a push button on the end of your automatic shift lever. Pushing it in causes the Overdrive to turn on and off.
== == Basically, the problem is often that, the choke being left "on" continually prevents the engine from starting because there is too much gas for the air being provided. (The choke control reduces the air being provided to burn with gas). On warm days, a two-cycle engine does not need to be choked very much. The cooler it is, the longer you need to leave the choke on. You need to prime the engine by pushing in on the plastic dome that you can see gas in. That sends gasoline into the fuel line. Five pumps or so is all you need. Be sure that the cut-off switch is turned to "run". Put the choke lever into "choke on" position. Pull the start cord twice. That normally provides a good gas/air mixture to the cylinder. If the engine starts, put the choke lever back into the "choke off" position after a few seconds, and let the engine warm up. If it starts to sputter, put the choke back on for a few seconds more. If it doesn't start, put the choke lever back in the "choke off" position. (Yes, even if the engine does not start). Continue to pull the starter cord several more times. then put the choke lever back to "choke on" if it still won't start and start the cycle again.