Synthetic oil vs reg5w30?

Can you go longer between oil changes using synthetic oil vs conventional oil?

That's easy synthetic oil. Ill tell you why it sounds better

What kind of oil do you put in a 1996 Honda Accord?

That is a personal choice as to Synthetic vs Conventional, if I'm not mistaken it calls for an SAE 5W30. If the engine has NO Major Oil leaks then I would use a Synthetic Motor Oil 5W30 or even a 0W30. Hope this Helps.

What type of motor oil do you put in a 2000 ford escort?

Ford recommends 5w30 to be used. There are no recommendations as far as synthetic vs conventional go.

What is the difference between using synthetic oil and regular oil?

The differences in using a synthetic vs. conventional are as follows Better fuel economy due to reduced friction Reduced friction which results in less engine wear Reduced friction which results into more horse power output Longer oil change intervals which can save money in the long run A convention oil is recommended to be changed out every 3000 miles vs a synthetic oil which has a 6000 mile change interval. These mileage is based on manufactures recommendations for severe service. Stands up to high heat better than conventional oils. High performance vehicles come factory filled with Mobil 1 (Corvette, Mercedes Benz, ) or Castrol Synthetic (BMW) And most of its The Green Thing to do. Have your oil changed the right way at The Lube Shop, Camarillo, CA

Can you use synthetic oil in a lawn mower?

AnswerI can and do use synthetic oil in lawn mowers and other small engines. The newer design engines with overhead valves and overhead cams such as the Honda usually call for multi weight 10w-30 oil. In those engines just use the same weight oil as called for in the manual but in a synthetic such as Mobile-one. Engines like the flat-head Brigg's call for single weight 30w oil, in those old engines I use 20W-50 synthetic which is a good compromise.Some say it is a waste of money to use synthetic, however the cost is minimal if you use 1/2 quart of $7 synthetic for a once a year oil change you are paying $3.50 for 1/2 quart. If you use regular non-synthetic oil your cost for 1/2 quart would be about $1.75. So your cost to use synthetic is $1.75 a year. If your lawn mower lasts 12 years with synthetic vs 6 years with regular oil then you have saved yourself $250(new mower cost) over 6 years or $41.66 a year toward the cost of a new mower. Commericial heavy users would probably save alot more money.

Is Napa Power Steering Fluid 9800 ok for an Audi?

No. Get the Pentosin CHF 7.1 and CHF 11S fluids or Audi VW power steering hydraulic fluid part number G 002 000 or you may want Bilstein 08972. It is a select non-synthetic hydraulic steering fluid which has similar properties to CHF 11S with the exception of synthetic mineral oil blend vs non-synthetic mineral oil blend and thus, should be changed more frequently.

Can you mix full synthetic with semi synthetic oil?

Yes because semi-synthetic motor oil is a blended mixture generally 70% regular motor oil mixed with 30% full-synthetic oil therefore by adding or blending more full-synthetic oil into the mixture merely increases the percentage amount of full-synthetic oil within a pre-blended semi-synthetic brand. However it should be noted a 2-year motor oil test done on 75 New York taxi cabs in 1996 showed no significant nor any discernable differences whatsoever between using regular motor oil with a package of additives versus synthetic motor oil in terms of performance, sludge buildup, and wear and tear. It's a tie or in other words it looks to be more of a matter of financial capabilities whether a motorist can afford the overly expensive price of synthetic oil mostly for the peace of mind since apparently synthetic oil is practically no better and no worse than regular motor oil with additives On the other hand if the original question also asked, "Which is better, synthetic or semi synthetic or regular motor oil whether with or without additives?" then the answers depends upon certain circumstances. Synthetic motor oil is thinner than regular motor oil but withstands high and low temperatures better and therefore recommended for high performance racing engines or for use in very extreme hot and/or very extreme cold climates. Synthetic oil also takes longer to breakdown which translates into slightly longer periods between oil changes although still requires periodic oil changes. Full-synthetic oil is recommended for cold climate start-ups because its thinness makes it less sticky and less tacky between the moving metal parts of a cold engine which makes it easier for cold engines to turn-over compared to using regular motor oil which is a thicker oil. But synthetic oil is warned against using during a new engine's break-in period and also warned against using in engines prone to leakage because the thinness of the synthetic oil increases leakage particularly in older engines. Semi-synthetic motor oil consists roughly one-third synthetic and two-thirds regular motor oil and said to offer many same exact advantages as full-synthetic but at around half the price or so. Although regular motor oil with an additive may be cheaper it apparently works just as good as the more expensive synthetic oils and not worse nor better but essentially the same in regards to lubricating and protecting engines. For most motorists, although synthetic motor oil is slightly better than regular motor oil it's probably not likely worth the overly expensive price tag unless you're into high performance racing or live in very extreme climate temperatures otherwise everything else about full-synthetic motor oil sounds to be pure hype or else we would've expected any noticeable degree and/or some kind of significant difference in at least one engine out of the 75 city cabs from a 2-year motor oil test instead of zero difference, wouldn't we? The motor oil used in the Consumer Report 2-year motor oil test used a full package of additives but no tests were done using just plain motor oil without the additional additives, however, an oil expert strongly advises and warns against using any additives in article entitled "Motor Oil Myths and Facts", quote: "Do not use any oil additives no matter how much they are hyped on TV. They provide no benefit and can interfere and react with the additives already present in the oil. Some additives have particles that can clog oil passages and clog filters. Common additives that are heavily hyped are Slick 50, Duralube, and Prolong." Unquote. As of 2009 in comparison to 30, 20, or 10 years ago, the quality now-a-days of standard plain motor oil usually already contains its own detergent additives and is improved to where it now appears there's no longer any appreciable difference in the performance or benefit between using either plain regular motor oil without additional packages of additives vs synthetic vs semi-synthetic as long as periodic oil changes are maintained as they all work equally the same and equally well at performing the functions they're designed to do. In other words as long as a shop mechanic performs reasonable periodic oil changes over the next 10 or more years then any car owner who believed their car had always been using expensive synthetic oils even though the mechanic had been using cheaper plain motor oil whether with or without additional additives, the owner would not be able to distinguish any difference upon mechanical inspection of the engine parts. In conclusion and if money is of no concern then the only lazy advantage to using synthetics versus regular with additives appears to be the slightly longer periods between periodic maintenance oil-changes. I haven't researched any actual 10-year span statistics although I'm only guessing it could perhaps be something like a difference between maybe 3 synthetic oil-changes versus maybe 4 regular oil-changes per decade?

What type of oil to use in a 20 hp Briggs and Stratton?

An SAE 5w30 full synthetic will provide excellent protection under all conditions. Look for the new API SN rating vs. the previous SM rating.

What is the appropriate motor oil for 2003 galant?

10W-30 is the preferred oil, but if you live in a cold climate region, you may want to put in 5W-30. The 5W-30 will be easier on your engine when it's very cold (like below freezing) I would also recommend using synthetic oil vs. standard oil. It WILL definitely prolong the life of your engine, you won't be prone to engine sludge, you won't have to change your oil every 3000 miles (more like every 6000-7500 miles) and it's not near as hard on you engine during cold starts. The synthetic motor oils always leave a small coating around your engine components unlike standard motor oil that just drains into the oil pan when your engine is shut off. Synthetics are more expensive and I would go with Mobile 1 or Castrol pure synthetic. You can always buy your own motor oil & filter and take it into the garage of your choice to have the labor done. That will save you some money. Instead of 25-30$ for an oil change (if the shop supplies the oil and filter) most places will charge 60-75$ for the synthetic, that's why buying your own oil and filter will save you money and most places should be fine with that. (that's what I do!!!) You can also change from regular motor oil to synthetic at ANY time, even if you already have over 100K miles on your car. But you cannot switch back and forth once you go synthetic and you should use the same brand as well.

What are the calories of butter vs vegetable oil?

There is less calories in the butter vs oil cause oil is 100% fat and butter is around 80% fat and the rest is water. Butter is 70 cal/10g and oil is 80 cal/10g.

What oil does a vs 2008 dogde charger take sincentic or regular oil?

Need to no what oil take if regular oil o use con te tic oil

Is it okay to switch from Regular to Synthetic Motor oil with out changing the oil first like just adding some synthetic when the regular oil is a little low?

== == To be completely honest, I'm not gonna read this whole thing. Couple points to be made from skimming: 1. Synthetic is not thinner than conventional. 2. Potential leaks "caused" by a high mileage switch to synthetic oil is caused by poor maintenance prior to the switch resulting in there being sludge build up. 3. Any study done more than say 5 years ago in terms of oil means nothing. 4. Assuming 3000 mile oil changes for conventional and 5000 mile oil changes for synthetic and the general average of 15,000 miles/year you would change the oil 20 less times when using synthetic. ANSWERThank you for asking and the answer is yes it is perfectly okay to switch in either direction including changing from synthetic to regular without having to drain the oil and it will not do any damage as long as reasonable periodic oil changes are still maintained.Conventional semi-synthetic motor oil is a blended mixture of generally 30% synthetic and 70% regular and therefore it does not do any harm to manually increase the percentage amount of synthetic to 98% or 99% synthetic however it should be noted that a 2-year motor oil test done on 75 New York taxi cabs in 1996 showed no significant nor any discernable differences whatsoever between using regular motor oil with a package of additives versus synthetic motor oil in terms of performance, sludge buildup, and wear and tear. It's an equal tie or in other words it looks to be more of a matter of financial capabilities whether a motorist can afford the overly expensive price of synthetic oil mostly for the peace of mind since apparently synthetic oil is practically no better and no worse than regular motor oil with additives. A partial copy of the Consumer Reports article titled "The surprising truth about motor oils" can be found at URL: http://www.moneybluebook.com/articles/consumerreports.oilchange.phpSynthetic motor oil is thinner than regular motor oil but withstands high and low temperatures slightly better than regular motor oil and therefore recommended for high performance racing engines or for use in very extreme hot and/or very extreme cold climates. Synthetic oil takes slightly longer to breakdown before losing its lubricating properties which translates into longer time periods between oil changes but it still requires periodic oil changes. Full-synthetic oil is recommended for extreme cold climate start-ups because its thinness makes it less sticky and less tacky between the moving metal parts of a cold engine which makes it easier for cold engines to turn-over compared to using regular motor oil which is a thicker oil but then it's the same reason why 5W(Winter)/40 or higher multi-weight motor oil is recommended for extreme temperature climates rather than choosing 10W/30. But synthetic oil is warned against using during a new engine's break-in period and also warned against using in engines prone to leakage because the thinness of the synthetic oil increases leakage particularly in older engines.Semi-synthetic motor oil is said to offer many same exact advantages as full-synthetic but at around half the price or so.Regular motor oil with an additive may be cheaper but it apparently works just as good as the more expensive synthetic oils and not worse nor better but essentially the same in regards to lubricating and protecting engines.For most motorists but not for all, although synthetic motor oil is better than regular motor oil it's probably not likely worth the overly expensive price tag unless you're into high performance racing or live in very extreme climate temperatures otherwise everything else about full-synthetic motor oil sounds to be pure hype and possibly the placebo effect or else we would've expected any noticeable degree and/or some kind of significant difference of sludge buildup and/or wear and tear in at least one engine out of the 75 city cabs from a 2-year motor oil test instead of absolute zero difference, wouldn't we?The motor oil used in the Consumer Report 2-year motor oil test used a full package of additives but no tests were done using just plain motor oil without the additional additives, however, an oil expert strongly advises and warns against using any additives, as well as against flushing, in an article entitled "Motor Oil Myths and Facts", quote: "Do not use any oil additives no matter how much they are hyped on TV. They provide no benefit and can interfere and react with the additives already present in the oil. Some additives have particles that can clog oil passages and clog filters. Common additives that are heavily hyped are Slick 50, Duralube, and Prolong." Unquote.URL: http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htmIndicative of the 1996 2-year test, as of 2009 in comparison to 30 or 20 years ago, the quality now-a-days of standard plain motor oil usually already contains its own detergent additives and is improved to where it now appears there's no longer any appreciable difference in the performance or benefit between using either plain regular motor oil without additional packages of additives vs synthetic as long as periodic oil changes are maintained as they all work equally the same and equally well at performing the functions they're designed to do. In other words and hypothetically speaking if a shop mechanic were to perform reasonable periodic oil changes over the next 10 or more years but ended up telling the car owners the mechanic had always been using expensive synthetic oils even though the mechanic had secretly been using cheaper plain motor oil whether with or without additional additives, the owners as well as other mechanics would not be able to detect nor distinguish any difference upon mechanical inspection of the engine parts and would not be able to tell whether synthetic or regular oil had been used.In conclusion and if money is of no concern then the only lazy advantage to using synthetics versus regular with additives appears to be the longer periods between periodic maintenance oil-changes. I haven't researched any actual 10-year span statistics although I'm only guessing it could perhaps be something like a difference between maybe 2 or 3 synthetic oil-changes versus maybe 4 or 5 regular oil-changes per decade? Probably not. If you're already adding oil between changes you probably shouldn't be using synthetic. synthetic and conventional oil will mix fine. but if you are adding a lot of oil between changes the synthetic will probably be a waste of money. ANSWER That is not a good idea for several reasons. By allowing your organic oil to boil off you are leaving damaging deposits which will clog drain ports and cause motor failure. By adding synthetics to fill the void you are affecting the TBN's in the synthetic by trying to clean the motor and there for shortening the life of the new synthetic! My advise is to use a good motor flush and change oil then start new with the synthetic you wish and do not extend the drain interval recommendation set forth by the oil manufacture!

Synthetic oil vs reg5w30

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