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The appropriate heat treatment for An internally splined flange for a helicopter drive shaft?
Wiki User
∙ 13y ago
Depends on what material properties you want out of the metal and what metal you have. Assuming it is aluminum, I'd guess a T6 (which would provide strength and ductility), but there isn't enough information here answer the question.
Wiki User
∙ 13y ago
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Dodge Dakota truck windshield wiper does not turn on?
1. Determine if the motor is working or not. With the engine off, turn on the wipers and listen for motor running. If the wiper motor is running, the problem may be with the linkage. 2. To check linkage, remove the wiper arms from the shafts (fold arms away from windshield, move out locking tab, then take arm off the splined shaft by rocking or gently prying). Then remove the cowling by taking out 7 Phillips head sheet metal screws. Look at the linkage to see if it might be broken or if the linkage has come off the plastic bushing on the wiper motor. (this is what I discovered today on my 1990 Dakota and now I need to find just the plastic bushing. 3. If the motor is not running, first check the fuse. Replace fuse if it is blown. If not, the motor most likely needs replaced.
How do you do a motor and gear box alignment using two dial gauge?
Crankshaft flywheel flange runout.The crankshaft flywheel flange must be perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the crank with no permissible runout. Place a dial gauge on the bell housing and position the tip against the flywheel flange, parallel to the crank axis. (Perpendicular to the flange surface). Zero the gauge. Rotate the crank slowly by hand and watch for any movement. Any runout must be eliminated (because it will be compounded by the radius of the flywheel.)Flywheel friction face and rim face runout.With the flywheel now mounted to the crank, Place a dial gauge (magnetic clamp or mechanical clamp) to the bell housing and point the dial gauge perpendicular to the clutch friction face on the flywheel. Slowly rotate the crank and check for variation (runout). Maximum permissible runout is 0.01mm per 10mm of flywheel radius. Thus for a typical 300mm dia flywheel, max runout is 0.15mm (0.006"). (Runout here could cause rapid wear of the clutch splines or the driven plate breaking away from the splined hub due to continual flexing.)Reposition the dial gauge to point at a smooth piece of the flywheel near the starter gear teeth (rim), once again parallel to the direction of the crank. Slowly rotate the crank and note any runout or warp in the flywheel. The same maximum permissible runout applies here.Bellhousing (gearbox) runoutRepeat the exercise with the dial gauge clamped to the flywheel/clutch assembly pointing out (radially) to the bell housing locating the dial gauge point on the machined face of the bell housing that locates the gearbox. (At right angles to crank direction). Check for radial run out. Maximum permissible runout is 0.20mm or 0.008".
What is a clutch brake on a heavy duty truck transmissions?
A clutch brake is a circular disc with a friction surface that is splined to the input shaft of the transmission between the release bearing and transmission. Its purpose is to slow and/or stop the input shaft from turning to allow initial forward or reverse gear engagement in non-synchronized transmissions. It helps prevent premature wear of the internal transmission parts during those initial shifts. To understand this in more detail, let's consider what is going on when a heavy truck transmission is shifted from neutral to first or reverse. When a truck is in neutral and the clutch pedal is not depressed, the master clutch is engaged. This causes power from the engine to drive the transmission input shaft, resulting in rotation of some shafts and gears in the transmission. However, the gears aren't engaged or meshed in a way that transmits power to the drive shaft. In other words, parts of the transmission are just idling but spinning. When the clutch pedal is depressed, it moves the release or throw-out bearing toward the transmission and away from the flywheel. This unloads the springs in the master clutch, releasing the master clutch and decoupling the flywheel from the transmission output shaft. Without the engine driving the transmission input shaft, the spinning shafts and gears in the transmission start to coast down. However, it would take a long time for these rotating masses to slow down, because they have a lot of mass and the only thing that is slowing them is gear and bearing drag. If everything is properly adjusted, the master clutch is opened or released when the pedal is depressed about half way or so. If there's no clutch-brake, and you then shift into first or reverse, the rotation of gears in the transmission won't all be the same on a non-synchronized transmission, and then the gears can clash or make a "thunk" as gears that are spinning are meshed with gears that are not spinning. Over time, this can wear or even damage the gears. When a clutch-brake is installed, pushing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor pulls the release bearing even further away from the master clutch toward the transmission, which eventually squeezes the clutch-brake disc between the release bearing and the transmission case. Friction between these parts then slows and soon stops the transmission input shaft from rotating. Now, gears can be moved into mesh in the transmission and there might be a bit of noise because the teeth aren't perfectly aligned, but they won't be rotating. If you time everything just right, you'll make the shift from neutral to first or reverse just as the gears are almost stopped, but not quite. A little rotation helps ease the meshing and can almost eliminate noise or "thunk" sounds. The clutch-brake is unusual because it always picks up grease from the release bearing. Modern clutch-brakes are designed to operate with grease, and they even require greasing or oiling before installation. Clutch-brakes fail for two reasons. First, over time, the friction material will wear out. At some point, there will be metal-to-metal contact in the "sandwich" consisting of the bearing, clutch-brake plate, and the transmission cover. This might still slow the gears, but it can cause damage to the bearing or the transmission cover. It's also possible that the release bearing won't be able to move far enough toward the transmission to squeeze the disc, and the clutch-brake won't slow down the transmission shaft because there won't be friction in the "sandwich." If you keep the pedal linkage properly adjusted and periodically grease the release bearing and clutch-brake disc, the disc can last for a long time. However, the most common cause of clutch-brake failure is depressing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor when shifting during a range change--when the truck is moving. When you do this, you are forcing the little clutch-brake to try and stall the engine and stop the truck! Doing that only one time will often destroy the clutch-brake completely. This can also occur if the pedal linkage isn't properly adjusted and the release bearing squeezes the clutch-brake into the transmission case when making a range gear change.
How do you get mongoose rebel back gear off?
Depends on if it's a freewheel or a freehub design. For a freewheel you need the appropriate freewheel puller. For a freehub you need a splined lockring tool.
Is 'splined shaft' grammatically correct?
Yes, it is grammatically correct. 'Spline' is a transitive verb meaning 'to put splines on'. Therefore, something onto which splines are put can be referred to as 'splined'.
What transmission components are splined to the main shaft?
Just the output shaft of the transmission.
What is used to support a fractured forearm wrist or hand after the fracture has been splined?
sling
What is the name of the gearbox shaft which is 'splined' to accept the clutch plate?
front transmition shaft Input Shaft
Where can I find a splined gear for an Alias Chalmer hydraulic pump?
You should check local auto salvage yards.
How do you take a crankset off?
Depends on which kind it is.There are:Cottered cranksSquare taperSelf-extracting square taperSeveral variations of splined cranksAshtabula, one-piece cranksDisassembly is different between most of these.Cottered, you need a cotter pressSquare taper and some of the splined, you need a crank puller.Ashtabula, you need a hook wrench
How do you adjust wiper blade timing on 1992 Toyota Previa?
just loosen the nut, these are not splined so just put it where you want it
How do you remove the you-joints on a 1994 Ford Explorer?
mark driveshaft, yoke, and splined tail so that driveshaft will be installed in same location to vmaintain factory balance Remove and discard small "U" bolts at yoke Pry driveshaft up onto splined tail piece to allow removal from yoke After removed from yoke - slide off of splined tail piece Bring to machine/auto parts store to have new "U" joints pressed into driveshaft Re-installed in same location as removed using new "U" Bolts
How do a clutch look?
Clutch disc? If this is what you are asking, it looks like a plate with an abrasive surface on both sides. In the center is a "splined" hole. Hope this helps
Can you disable the shower scald guard?
Yes, very simply. You remove the handle and take out the splined disc immediately behind it. This now allows the handle free movement.
How do you take the cassette off your bicycle?
You need a splined tool bit for the lockring and a chain whip to keep the cassette from rotating. Check out www.bicycletutor.com, there's bound to be a walk-through there.
