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Waves out in the ocean don't break because they are in deep water, waves break when they reach shallower water and so the bottom of the wave catches on the bottom and causes a bit of friction which slows the wave down and cause it to fall over itself, which is breaking
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When wave come nears shore?
As a wave approaches the shore, its height increases and its speed decreases. This causes the wave's energy to be concentrated, leading to the wave breaking as it reaches shallow water near the shore. The breaking of the wave causes it to release its energy, creating the crashing sound associated with waves hitting the shore.
When a wave approaches land does it slow down or speed up?
When a wave approaches land, it slows down because of the shallower water depth. This causes the wavelength to decrease and the wave height to increase, eventually leading to the wave breaking near the shore.
What is relation between wavelength and depth of a wave?
The wavelength of a wave is inversely related to the depth of the water. As a wave enters shallower water, its wavelength decreases. This causes the wave to slow down and increase in height, leading to breaking waves near the shore.
What is meant by a wave can feel the bottom?
When a wave feels the bottom, it means it begins to slow down and increase in height when it encounters shallower water. This interaction with the sea floor causes the wave to break and curl, which is often observed as waves breaking at the shoreline.
What is a collapsing wave?
This is called a breaking wave also known as a breaker.
What happens to wave speed after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?
The wave speed decreases as it enters shallower water near the shore due to a decrease in water depth. This causes the waves to slow down and increase in height, ultimately leading to wave breaking as the top of the wave moves faster than the bottom.
Why do waves crash?
Waves crash when the energy in the wave becomes too concentrated as it approaches the shore. This causes the top of the wave to move faster than the bottom, resulting in the wave breaking. The forceful impact of the crashing wave is what we see and hear as it hits the shore.
Breaking feature of a wave?
A hook
What makes waves crash on the shore?
Waves crash on the shore when they approach shallow water, causing the wave height to increase and eventually break. This is due to the friction between the rising wave and the ocean floor, which slows down the bottom of the wave and causes the top to topple forward, forming a breaking wave.
Which force acts on an ocean wave as it nears the shore causing it to act differently?
The force of friction between the ocean wave and the sea floor causes the wave to slow down as it nears the shore. This frictional force results in the wave increasing in height and eventually breaking as it reaches shallow water.
The bubbles in the crest of a breaking wave?
swells
A sentence for wave crest?
The wave crest is the highest point of a wave, where the wave reaches its maximum height before breaking.
