How do you troubleshoot a Chevy love carburetor?
HiDepending on the carb that it is equipped with, a Nikki or Hitachi if it is the G161 engine, but you should firstly find out if there are any obviuos fuel leaks on the primary and secondary main shafts, wich point to worn out shafts, with the related lean runnig symptoms. If that is your problem, renew the buses on the shafts. Other lean running conditions pertains to float level adjustments, and speed pump wear, wich is recognised by stumbling or backfiring through the carb if the pedal is floored suddenly from idle. Check speed pump condition by removing the air filter housing, and with the engine off, working the throttle by hand, and looking into the primary venturi, you should see a jet of fuel being sprayed into the venturi, if not the speedpump is worn, and you must replace it.If that checs out o.k. the float level nedds adjusting, there is either a glass window, or peep hole that is marked where the float level must "ride" in the fuel, as a rule of thumb you can get close to the right adjustment by turning the top of the carb upside down, and adjusting the float, by bending the float tab to get the float seam (in the middle of the float) in a straight line with the carb top. While you are there check the needle and seat too, if they are worn replace them. While the top is off the carb chek inside the floatbowl for dirt and debris.In the carb body there is a brass pin, with a ball (about 3mm) below it, and a spring wich tensions it, to get it out, the easiest is to remove the carb, and turning it opside down, and see where the pin, ball, and spring falls out, remove the jets noting their positions, and sizes, and clean with aerosol carb cleaner, and return them to their original positions, the floatbowl jet sometimes gets clogged by dirt, wears out, and needs replacement, but the other jets don't wear.Then you need to check the choke assembly on the top of the carb for propper opening, normally a cable operated mechanism, als check the liks, and pivots. Here in South Africa we get Echilin carb kits with a diagram of the carb inside, and fairly decent instructions on the repair procedures, but make sure that you get the right kit, because once opened they are not returnable!!!!!!The base where the butterfly's and shafts are, are steel, and don't warp easily, but the pewtwer carb body that mounts onto it, can warp, to fix this, use 1000 grit wet sanding paper on a sheet of glass, and keep it wet and perpendicular to the glass,you can also reface the float bowl window part of the carb body like that, and the top part of the body.Sorry I have no pics to help you with, and this is the same for most 2 chole downdraught Japanese carburettors. If the carb can't get fixed, you can easily swap it for another as these types of carbs are for the most part interchangable (Hitach; Nikki and Aisan), you can fit a carb off a 1800 Nissan (L18 engine), without any hassels, or a 1800 Toyota because they will give you improved performance, and in many cases lower the fuel consumption.Happy working.
