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Umthatha (to give Umtata its correct spelling) has much in common with other towns in the Transkei only much bigger and more spread out. It has its leafy suburbs but the streets in the central business areas are very congested during work days as people flock from outlying areas to do their shopping or come stock up for their trading stores back in the rural areas.

Most tourists traveling through the Transkei just want to get through Umthatha as quickly as possible. Perhaps stopping at a one stop garage on its western outskirts for some refreshments or to top up the petrol tank.

To me it is what lies SE or NW of Umthatha that is so appealing. The beautiful Wild Coast, the rugged Drakensberg mountains, the scenic rural villages. It makes for a most enjoyable drive to to take a route through the Transkei that follows a bit closer to the mountains of Lesotho going via Maclear, Ugie and Elliot (or even venturing higher to Rhodes and Barkly East). And to travel through the Transkei and not to head down one of the roads to the coast is to miss out on a most beautiful part of the world (pot holes in the road not withstanding). It helps to have a reliable vehicle with decent clearance such as with a LDV to travel the many dirt roads.

Whenever I travel through the Transkei and I am not in a hurry, I like to explore a little off the beaten track. This past week I visited Inkwekwezeni and the site of

Aylif's old Buterworth Mission station. Perhaps next time it will be to see the vulture colony at Collywobbels.

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Q: What is Umtata Transkei like?
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