bought this revolver today seems to be in great condition
If not a refinish, 500 or so.
The bluing is a good thing. The purpose of cleaning your rifle is basically to protect the bluing, which in tern protects your rifle.Basically, you use something like "Break Free CLP - Clean, Lubricate and Protect.", which is what I use. Its an oil. You wet a small rag with the oil and rub it on the barrel, until you are satisfied that it is clean and protected. This will leave a thin protective coat of the oil on the bluing to protect it from the air, moisture, etc. But inside the barrel, you do not leave a coat for protection. Don't make that mistake.However if you are storing your rifle for a long period of time (months or years )and want to protect it, then there are greases that you would use for inside the barrel, which you would have to clean out before shooting.And another thing: DON'T touch the bluing, the barrel, or any other metal parts of your rifle, with your hands/skin. Your sweat is corrosive, will leave "rust-prints". Wipe it down with an oiled rag when you are done with your rifle.happy shooting!
One just recently sold on gunofamerica.com for $225 + $25 shipping. had a little scratch on the bluing at end of barrel
what is the worth of springfield meteor 22 single shot rifle?it has light ruston the barrel, 50% of bluing, stock has threescuffs, barrel has ware, as well as the muzzel.garyg1946@yahoo.com
Mrs. Stewart's Bluing was created in 1883.
I think you mean re-blue the barrel. "Birchwood Casey" makes gun bluing products. You can even do touch-up or complete bluing. I suggest you remove the stock then use a "bluing and rust remover." Afterwards I used a very light Steel-wool (#0000) and then wiped it down and got all the steel fuzz of the rifle. Wear plastic gloves you don't want to get skin oil on the barrel or bluing on your hands. (it stinks) I wiped it down with a damp cloth, when it was dry I made sure it was a clean as possible. I used an air hose to blow everything off the barrel. Then I took a very soft cloth and applied the bluing. It will take several coats. But it turns blue all of a sudden as you are applying it. It gets darker as you apply additional coats. I used a small paint brush to make sure I got it into all the creases and joints. I suggest you practice on a piece of metal first to get the Idea. You can purchase everything you need at Cabelas, Basspro, Big 5 or any firearms dealer. Birchwood Casey also makes products to redo your stock. see the link below.
You have an Old Model Blackhawk.
300-600 USD.
Bluing, as it relates to firearms or metal in general, is a permanent surface treatment under ideal conditions. Poorly maintained bluing will fade or flake off. Bluing is a "form of rust", an oxide layer on the outside of the metal. You can remove it using various abrasives, but yes it is permanent.
I just paid $89 for one at a dealer. It has a six inch barrel, 8 shot, in fair condition, with scratches in bluing. But hey, it should work for a plinker!
50-200 USD or so
There are several reasons bluing will not take on a gun. One is it stainless steel. Nope. Two is the bluing solution correct. If so, is the temperature correct, Brownells has bluing info for their solutions., follow these almost perfect. Also to be blued, it must be alloy steel. not pot metal, not cast, just steel. Don't get any brass, copper, zinc or lead in the bluing solution. lcjones