The difference is 2 ohms.
Another difference is that the 2 ohm speaker will draw more power from a given amplifier than a 4 ohm speaker will draw. If the amplifier is not rated for two ohms, then the two ohm speaker may draw more than the amplifier's rated power, and the amplifier may be damaged as a result.
Yes, you can use 2 in series, IE daisy chain them to add up to 8 ohms.
For stereo you would need 4 speakers not 2. mono, 2 not one.
Most Amplifiers work OK driving to a lower impedance loads anyway so just hook them up. Very high power levels may overheat the amp, but at normal volume it should be fine.
Something important is added:
There are no 4 ohm or 2 ohm amplifiers!
The amplifier will have an output impedance of around 0.04 ohms. In hi-fi we have always impedance bridging. Zout << Zin. That means that the output impedance of the amplifier is much less than the impedance of the loud speaker.
The damping factor Df = Zin / Zout tells you what Zout is.
Zout = Zin/Df.
If the damping factor Df = 200 and the loudspeaker impedance is Zin = 4 ohms, the output impedance of the amplifier is Zout = 4 / 200 = 0.02 ohms.
You see, there are no "4 ohm or 2 ohm" amps with a 4 ohm or 2 ohm output.
Scroll down to related links and look at "Voltage Bridging - Zout < Zin".
the is the same assuming the volume is set the same. just efficiency changes
Ohms is a measure of resistance to electric current. In this case, electric current is the audio signal coming from your stereo.
The lower the Ohms, the more current (power) the speaker will draw from the equipment.
For car electronics in general, 4 Ohms is usually better. Most car radios are designed to drve 4-Ohm speakers.
One exception is very old (generally pre-80's) stock GM radios. They are designed for 10 Ohm speakers.
If you are using an amplifier, check your amplifier's specs and use what it reccommends. Some will take 2 Ohms.
If your Ohms are lower than the specifications call for, it can cause the amplifier or radio to overheat and can destroy the audio output section.
It depends on what you consider "better".
Any amplifier will be able to damp an 8 ohm 'speaker better than it can a 4 ohm one. Which is always a good thing.
However, this is unlikely to be important in a vehicle since fidelity is not as important as volume.
you can't really answer this without knowing the voltage, and current that you're enquiring about. an ohm is equal to a volt, divided by an amp.
2 Ohms, as a personal opinion, is better because your amp can push more because there is less resistance for the amp to fight and your amp will give you more usable power.
6.5 shallow Do not know if it is a 4 ohm or 2ohm--- 2ohm will harm your original amp if made for a 4ohm
Depends if it is dual 4Ohm or dual 2Ohm and what Impedance your Amp supports. *If you amp can handle 1Ohm Load and you have a dual 2Ohm sub you can run the sub in parallel to get a 1Ohm load (parallel meaning both + are connected with each and same with both -) *If your amp can handle 2Ohm load and you have a dual 4Ohm sub you can run the sub in parallel to get a 2Ohm load. *If your amp supports a 4Ohm load and you have a dual 2Ohm sub you can run the sub in series to get a 4Ohm load. (series meaning the - from one coil is to be connected with the + on the other coil) Do not mix up Impedance's make sure you find out what your Subs Impedance is and what you Amps Impedance is
If the output plug require 2 ohms speaker and you will plug an 4 ohm speaker, will be safer for speaker but the sound will be not so loud. (Yes, and maybe no... Not knowing your exact setup ill speculate, Assuming your actually dropping the ohms of the speaker.....If you parallel the 4ohm speakers it will drop them to 2ohm. But this will also double your wattage output. That is where it can get dangerous. If your speakers are rated at 200 watts and your Amp is putting out say 200W at 4ohm, when you parallel the speakers and drop that down to 2ohm it will now be pushing 400W at 2ohm... and your speakers can/will be damaged. So check how many watts your going to be feeding your speakers when you drop the ohms down and as long as it doesn't exceed the wattage of your speakers you should be fine Now, If your just plugging a 4ohm speaker into a 2ohm slot. (As long as your wattage is fine) your speaker will be fine, Just possibly not as loud as an equal 2ohm speaker may be. )
It depends on the amplifier. If you absolutely want to leave the current subwoofer configuration as 2ohm and 4ohm, the resultant impedance seen by the amplifier is as follows: Both wired In-Series: 2ohm + 4ohm = 6 ohms Both wired In-Parallel: 1 / ( (1/2) + (1/4) ) = 1.3 ohms The Parallel configuration can probably be only run by a 1ohm-stable amplifier whereas the 6ohm Series configuration can be run by any amplifier that is able to drive anything under 6 ohms. Also if ran in the Parallel configuration, this mismatch in driver impedance may also cause the 2ohm subwoofer to receive more power, resulting in a different sound characteristics than the 4ohm subwoofer. Usually with DVC subwoofers you want to match the impedance between drivers. If possible, configure each subwoofer to 4ohms and connect them in Parallel. This will produce a total impedance of 2 ohms (you need a 2ohm-stable amplifier). If your DVC subwoofers only support 2ohms and 8ohms do either: Both wired In-Series - configure subwoofers to 2ohms: 2ohms + 2ohms = 4ohms Both wired In-Parallel - configure subwoofers to 8ohms: 1 / ( (1/8) + (1+8) ) = 4ohms.
connect 2 2ohm resistors in parallel and connect it to a series 2ohm resistor
Rt = 1.25
The front speakers should be 6.5" and the rear should be 6x9". You will want to make sure you have the correct ohm speakers though. My 2004 impala has 2ohm speakers and my friends has 4ohm speakers. You can put 4 ohm speakers in a 2 ohm system but your sound quality will suffer greatly. Do not put 2 ohm speakers in a 4 ohm system though, that will cause bigger problems.
Did you get the 2 ohm or the 4ohm? I have a 750 mono on my single 4ohm and have no where near enough power.
you don't light the car on fire and make it explode
6.5" 2 ohm in the doors, plus 1 inch 4ohm tweeter if you have monsoon 6.5" dual 4 ohm voice coil subwoofer in the sail panel. (highly recommend Elemental Designs) 4x6" round 4 ohm speaker + 1" tweeter if you have monsoon. There are no 2ohm voice speakers that I know of, so your sound output will be slightly lower with aftermarket speakers. If you dont have Monsoon, then you have 6.5" 4 ohm speakers, standard replacements apply.
That will depend on the subs power rating, and how they're wired. Since I don't know which model subs you have, I can only give you an example and not a definite answer. Let's assume that your subs are rated at 100W RMS @ 4 ohms. If you hook them up in series, you will then need an amp capable of delivering a minimum of 200W RMS @ 8 ohms. (more would be better, say 250W @ 8 ohms) If you run those same two subs in parallel, you will then need an amp capable of delivering a minimum of 200W RMS @ 2 ohms. (again 250W would be better) Hope this helps! The wattage of the speakers MUST be more than the amp. Otherwise you can potentially blow the speakers. The impedance of the speaker MUST match or be more than the amp Otherwise you can potentially blow the speakers. Ideally you want more than enough power in amp and speakers than your highest listening volume. An over driven amp introduces distortion. If speakers are wired in series then there is more resistance you half the wattage but double the impedance. So 2x100w 4ohm speakers in series are 100w at 8ohm. If the speakers are wired in parallel then there is less resistance you get double wattage but half the impedance. 2x100w 4ohm speakers are now 200w into 2ohm Most car amps are 4ohm (home hifi usually 4 or 8 ohm) therefore to add 2 10" subs you would need 2x 8ohm and wire them in parallel to half the impedance to 4ohm. Many car sub woofers are dual 4ohm voice coil. This means you can wire a single speaker unit as 2ohm, 4ohm or 8ohm and this then means you can run sets in parallel or series as you see fit. heathcnc here again: I made the assumption of car audio and didn't consider the home audio/theatre possibility. I apologize. I completely agree with these two statements as applied to a home audio/theatre situation. "The wattage of the speakers MUST be more than the amp. Otherwise you can potentially blow the speakers." "The impedance of the speaker MUST match or be more than the amp Otherwise you can potentially blow the speakers." However in car audio, the amplifiers are of a different class and are far more flexible and user-configurable. This is why I always recommend running an amp that is more powerful than the speaker it is driving. That way you can set that amps gain lower than full power(an option unavailable to the user on home equipment). When configured correctly like this there is very little chance of harming your speakers.