That will depend on the subs power rating, and how they're wired. Since I don't know which model subs you have, I can only give you an example and not a definite answer.
Let's assume that your subs are rated at 100W RMS @ 4 ohms.
If you hook them up in series, you will then need an amp capable of delivering a minimum of 200W RMS @ 8 ohms. (more would be better, say 250W @ 8 ohms)
If you run those same two subs in parallel, you will then need an amp capable of delivering a minimum of 200W RMS @ 2 ohms. (again 250W would be better)
Hope this helps!
The wattage of the speakers MUST be more than the amp. Otherwise you can potentially blow the speakers.
The impedance of the speaker MUST match or be more than the amp Otherwise you can potentially blow the speakers.
Ideally you want more than enough power in amp and speakers than your highest listening volume. An over driven amp introduces distortion.
If speakers are wired in series then there is more resistance you half the wattage but double the impedance. So 2x100w 4ohm speakers in series are 100w at 8ohm.
If the speakers are wired in parallel then there is less resistance you get double wattage but half the impedance. 2x100w 4ohm speakers are now 200w into 2ohm
Most car amps are 4ohm (home hifi usually 4 or 8 ohm) therefore to add 2 10" subs you would need 2x 8ohm and wire them in parallel to half the impedance to 4ohm. Many car sub woofers are dual 4ohm voice coil. This means you can wire a single speaker unit as 2ohm, 4ohm or 8ohm and this then means you can run sets in parallel or series as you see fit.
heathcnc here again:
I made the assumption of car audio and didn't consider the home audio/theatre possibility. I apologize.
I completely agree with these two statements as applied to a home audio/theatre situation.
"The wattage of the speakers MUST be more than the amp. Otherwise you can potentially blow the speakers."
"The impedance of the speaker MUST match or be more than the amp Otherwise you can potentially blow the speakers."
However in car audio, the amplifiers are of a different class and are far more flexible and user-configurable. This is why I always recommend running an amp that is more powerful than the speaker it is driving. That way you can set that amps gain lower than full power(an option unavailable to the user on home equipment). When configured correctly like this there is very little chance of harming your speakers.
There are two types of subwoofers. 1. Active subwoofers 2. Passive subwoofers An active subwoofer will have a built-in amplifier. A passive subwoofer doesn't have a built-in amplifier which will require the use of an amplifier, the use of a power source.
get the 2800
depends on where your putting them and what kind they are
To power two Kenwood KFC-W3013PS 12-inch subwoofers at 4 ohms each, a suitable amplifier would be a class D mono amplifier that can deliver around 600 to 1200 watts RMS at 2 ohms, as connecting the two subs in parallel will yield a 2-ohm load. An example is the Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D, which provides 1200 watts at 2 ohms, ensuring adequate power for optimal performance. Make sure the enclosure is properly designed for the subs, ideally a ported box that matches their specifications for volume and tuning frequency.
Memphis Street Refrence 1.500 best amp for the subs
The wire ampacity of #12 copper wire with an insulation factor of 90 degrees C is 20 amps. If the load is of a continuous nature e.g. baseboard heaters then the wire has to be de-rated to 18 amps
Yes, you can power two 12-inch Kicker Comp subwoofers with a JBL GTO3501 amplifier, provided the subwoofers' impedance matches the amplifier's output. The GTO3501 is capable of delivering up to 350 watts RMS at 2 ohms, which should be sufficient for the Kicker subwoofers, as long as they are wired correctly (typically in parallel for dual 4-ohm subs). Make sure to check the power handling specifications of your specific Kicker model to avoid overloading the subwoofers.
This is determined by how you wire your subs to your amp. If you get an amp that's bridgeable to mono, then you can wire your subs in series. You will get much more thump if you do it this way. However, make certain that your amp is bridgeable, and stable down to 2 or even 1 Ohms. Check with the dealer you buy from. When wired the way I mentioned, a 300-Watt amp will probably do nicely!
It depends on the specific power-handling capabilities of the subwoofers and their impedance. If the subwoofers have a total power handling capacity that is lower than 300 watts and the amplifier can provide enough power at the required impedance, then it should be able to adequately power the two tens. However, if the subwoofers have a higher power handling capacity or the amplifier cannot provide enough power, it may not be sufficient.
A monoblock is a type of amplifier used in car audio systems. What the monoblock type of amplifier does is to split the two channels of audio into two separate mono systems, giving a little more kick to the bass coming out of subwoofers.
First you will absolutely need an amp to power any subwoofers. Nowadays subwoofers come along with amp..& normally one 1200watt subwoofer decrease your car battery lifetime to 2-4 month
There are many different ways that you could wire two dual voice coil subwoofers. Depending on how you connect the voice coils, you could have 1ohm (all coils in parallel), 4ohms (parallel-series combination). Technically you could wire them for 16ohms (all in series), but this isn't done in practice because an amplifier won't provide much power to a 16ohm load. You should wire the subwoofers to make an impedance (which is the 'ohms') which will match your amplifier. Not all amplifiers can handle 1ohm, so you may need to wire the subwoofers for 4ohms. Be sure to do some research on this before wiring anything up or you could damage your amplifier. For some helpful wiring diagrams, check out the Fosgate Wiring Wizard: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp?submitted=true&woofer_qty=2&woofer_imp=4