Actually 7018 is a low hydrogen electrode. Some electrodes produce a gas containing hydrogen to protect the molten puddle from oxygen which can destroy the metal. (Oxidization = rust) The 18 series produces very little if any hydrogen. These electrodes must be kept dry as moisture is water (H2O- 2 parts hydrogen one part oxygen).
a welding rod
1040.
a welding rod
7018 structural 6010 root, 7018 cover for pipe
its 7018 grade rod can use
Any position except downhill
depends but i would use a 3-32 rod preferably a 7018 hope that helps
6010 penetrates deeper than 7018 does. It is a "fast freeze" rod - the puddle solidifies quickly. There's not much slag and it chips off easily. It also requires DC electrode-positive polarity. If you have an AC-only welder like a Lincoln AC-225, get 6011 which is almost the same rod but it will run on either AC or DC. Most guys who use 6010-series rods are welding pipe. Guys who weld bridge decking grab this rod first because of its penetration. 7018 is a rod with low-hydrogen flux. It produces a LOT prettier weld than the 6000-series rods do, but it's got to be stored in a rod oven because moisture in the air changes the way it welds. These are generally used for structural welding. These are two of the most general-purpose rods out there.
That depends on the diameter of the rod if it is 1/8" set your amperage between 125 and 140.
We were told 309 was the electrode of choice.
That depends on the diameter of your rod which depends on the thickness of the material you are welding. An e-7018 1/16" rod start at about 70 amps. A 3/32 rod start about 90 amps. A 1/8 rod start at about 110 amps. These are ball park ranges and you will need to adjust to suit. When the scale from your test beads chips off easily you are exactly where you need to be with the heat.
3/32 85-100 1/8 110-160 is what I run