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Answered 2011-09-14 11:59:08

Yes P1135 is an Air Fuel Ratio sensor which in order to get the correct part you have to buy from the dealer and its about $230. I have the same issue with My Camry with has the same motor as your Rav 4. BUT I changed my air fuel ratio sensor and the light came right back on in about 60 miles with the same exact code so I don't know what to trouble shoot and try next....

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01 toyota salara oxygen sensor how to replace it code p1135 p1155


Code P1135 means air/fuel sensor heater circuit response (bank 1 sensor 1)


Trouble code P1135 means: Air-Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction


Trouble code P1135 means: Air-Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction


Trouble code P1135 means: Air-Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction


I have toyota rav 4 03 and i have the engine light on, I got it diagnosed and p 1135 which is the o2 fuel sensor but, which one?


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Trouble code P1135 means: Air-Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction


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Trouble code P1135 means: Air-Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction


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they are different codes that tell the oxygen filter needs to be changed. one is for the front, and the other for the underside. not sure... but i think 1135 is the one under the car. to change it it needs to be put on a lift.


There are two sensors - one on the front exhaust manifold and one on the rear. The one on the front is easy to see/remove. The one on the rear, not so much. It can be reached from under the car with your left arm (assuming you're lying on your back with your feet sticking out the front of the car) hooking up just behind the left front suspension. To change, first unplug the sensor, then loosen with a 22mm open end wrench. Install is the oposite. I found a new OEM sensor on e-bay for $130 and it took me about 10 minutes to do the job.


Trouble code P0171 means: Fuel System Too Lean - Bank 1 Trouble code P1135 means: Air-Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction Replace the sensor and both code with go away There are 3 step to repair po171 error If you got po171 error then there is a 94% chance that your computer has registry problems. To repair po171 error you need to follow the steps below: * Step 1 - Download a Perfect Optimizer,install this error repair tool. * Step 2 - Click the Repair All Button.It will scan you PC for Free. * Step 3 - Then click the Repair All Button again and your done! It is very easy to repair po171 error. Here are the URL of Perfect Optimizer: http://www.fixerror2009.com/tidpp-po171_error-zz0005


THE SENSORS ON THE 02 TACOMA 4X4 3.4L ENGINE ARE LOCATED ON THE FRONT AND REAR OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEMS CATALYTIC CONVERTER. THE FRONT SENSOR NEAREST THE ENGINE, IS THE MOST EXPENSIVE .THIS SENSOR ADJUSTS THE AIR AND FUEL RATIO AND PRODUCES A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WITH A OBDII CODE - P1135 THE TOYOTA PART NO.89467-35050 OR THE BOSCH #13613 COST AROUND $200.00 THE FRONT SENSOR IS HELD ON BY TWO 12MM STAINLESS STEEL HEX NUTS.THE BEST WAY TO ACCESS THE SENSOR FOR REMOVAL IS TO TAKE OFF THE FRONT WHEEL (PASSENGERS SIDE)AND REMOVE THE FOUR PLASTIC RIVITS HOLDING ON THE ENGINE MUD GUARD. BE SURE TO PRAY FIRST AND THEN SPRAY THE NUTS WITH PB BLASTER A DAY OR TWO BEFORE STARTING. ADVANCED AUTO WILL ALLOW U TO USE THE OBDII CODE READER WHICH IS PLUGGED INTO THE COMPUTER CONNECTOR UNDER THE DASH. BEFORE REMOVING THE SENSOR UNDO THE NEG - BATTERY TERMINAL . WHEN INSTALLING THE NEW SENSOR USE A LITTLE ANTI SCEEZE ON THE STUDS AND USE STAINLESS NUTS TO AVOID RUSTING. AFTER INSTALLATION 20 MINUTES,RETURN TO ADVANCE AUTO AND CHECK FOR ANY CODES. THE SENSORS ON THE 02 TACOMA 4X4 3.4L ENGINE ARE LOCATED ON THE FRONT AND REAR OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEMS CATALYTIC CONVERTER. THE FRONT SENSOR NEAREST THE ENGINE, IS THE MOST EXPENSIVE .THIS SENSOR ADJUSTS THE AIR AND FUEL RATIO AND PRODUCES A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WITH A OBDII CODE - P1135 THE TOYOTA PART NO.89467-35050 OR THE BOSCH #13613 COST AROUND $200.00 THE FRONT SENSOR IS HELD ON BY TWO 12MM STAINLESS STEEL HEX NUTS.THE BEST WAY TO ACCESS THE SENSOR FOR REMOVAL IS TO TAKE OFF THE FRONT WHEEL (PASSENGERS SIDE)AND REMOVE THE FOUR PLASTIC RIVITS HOLDING ON THE ENGINE MUD GUARD. BE SURE TO PRAY FIRST AND THEN SPRAY THE NUTS WITH PB BLASTER A DAY OR TWO BEFORE STARTING. ADVANCED AUTO WILL ALLOW U TO USE THE OBDII CODE READER WHICH IS PLUGGED INTO THE COMPUTER CONNECTOR UNDER THE DASH. BEFORE REMOVING THE SENSOR UNDO THE NEG - BATTERY TERMINAL . WHEN INSTALLING THE NEW SENSOR USE A LITTLE ANTI SCEEZE ON THE STUDS AND USE STAINLESS NUTS TO AVOID RUSTING. AFTER INSTALLATION 20 MINUTES,RETURN TO ADVANCE AUTO AND CHECK FOR ANY CODES.


I have an '01 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner (105K miles) and the check engine light came on last week. I took my truck to AutoZone to use their free diagnostic reader (give them a driver's license to borrow it) and plugged it in. No instructions given to me about how to use the reader, but I figured it out (and it tells you what to do for the most part). The reader gave me the following codes: P0171, P1130, and P1135. I took my truck to a local Toyota dealership's service department and they charged me $107 to do the same diagnostic test, which is required even though I had a very good idea that the problem was a faulty O2 sensor. However, they do perform a full vehicle systems inspection, including checking brakes and belt condition. So, they determined the O2 sensor was the only thing wrong (same codes), replaced the sensor, cleared the codes, and checked emissions. Final cost: $482. The new sensor part cost $222, and the rest went towards labor ($214) and additional minor parts + tax + waste disposal fee. Truck is running well now with no "check engine" light. It seems that the O2 sensor tends to go out on Toyota trucks and SUVs in the >100K mileage category - may be fairly common. Other than that, the truck has been great.


The P0300 is a multiple miss-fire code. The P1130 & P1135 are fuel air metering codes. Generally speaking you want to fix the first fault code in the list if you pull multiple codes at once. One code can cause other codes to appear. Fix the multiple miss-fire problem, clear the codes and see if the other two comeback.


Codes P0125 (Closed Loop Fuel Control Insufficient Coolant Temp), and or P1135.If this is the only code with no other codes such as P0171,174,141 ETC.Air fuel sensor is probably the problem; that is what the code po125 is really for.PO125 code refers to a malfunction with the #1 O2 sensors on both the right and left bank so my recommendation would be to replace both the bank 1,sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1, they are both located in the exhaust manifold.Occassionally it misses or hestitates when you are accellerates, you can push the gas peddle all the way to the floor and then suddenly it stops hesitating and takes off. There is no consistency at all. Does it when it is hot or cold, with or without the AC on.SAE DTC P0125=Coolant Temperature Insufficient for Closed Loop Operation.Manufacturer DTC P1135 (for Toyota) means A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1 (Set when the heater operates, heater current exceeds 8A or heater current of 0.25A or less).The A/F sensor contains a ECU-controlled heater. At start-up, the heater helps warm the A/F sensors to quickly operating temperature. With minimal exhaust gas flow, the heater keeps the A/F sensor from cooling down.Checking Resistance.a. Disconnect the A/F sensor connector.b. Using an ohmmeter measure the resistance between terminals +B and HT. Resistance: 0.8 - 1.4 ohms at 20°C (68°F). If the resistance is not as specified, replace the sensor.Torque: 44 Nm (440 kgf.cm, 31 ft.lbf)c. Reconnect the A/F sensor connector.(http://www.alflash.narod.ru/O2/79062351.gif )Quotes.P0125 set if after the engine is warmed up, A/F Sensor Output* does not change when conditions (a), (b), (c), and (d) continue for at least 1.5 min.:a. Engine speed: 1,500 rpm or moreb. Vehicle speed: 25 - 62 mph (40 -100 km/h)c. Throttle valve is not fully closedd. 140 sec. or more after starting engine*Output values changes inside ECM onlyOccassionally vehicle misses or hestitates when you accellerate.I suggest checking for a blown afr fuse in the engine compartment block. If ok check the sensors for proper operation. If they stay at 3.3v or if 02 sensors, they flat line replace them.Malfunction with the #1 O2 sensors on both the right and left bank so my recommendation would be to replace both the bank 1,sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1, they are both located in the exhaust manifold.Problem deals with bank 1 only(cly1,3,&5). Look up TSB for air/fuel part #'s on 3.0. Rear update # differ from front(near radiator). If # of both same or rear has RAV #, which can happen at parts,the A/F sensor will cause this kind of problem.


P0125 (Closed Loop Fuel Control Insufficient Coolant Temp).SAE DTC P0125=Coolant Temperature Insufficient for Closed Loop Operation.Manufacturer DTC P1135 (for Toyota) means A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1 (Set when the heater operates, heater current exceeds 8A or heater current of 0.25A or less).The A/F sensor contains a ECU-controlled heater. At start-up, the heater helps warm the A/F sensors to quickly operating temperature. With minimal exhaust gas flow, the heater keeps the A/F sensor from cooling down.Checking Resistance.a. Disconnect the A/F sensor connector.b. Using an ohmmeter measure the resistance between terminals +B and HT. Resistance: 0.8 - 1.4 ohms at 20°C (68°F). If the resistance is not as specified, replace the sensor.Torque: 44 Nm (440 kgf.cm, 31 ft.lbf)c. Reconnect the A/F sensor connector.(http://www.alflash.narod.ru/O2/79062351.gif )Quotes.P0125 set if after the engine is warmed up, A/F Sensor Output* does not change when conditions (a), (b), (c), and (d) continue for at least 1.5 min.:a. Engine speed: 1,500 rpm or moreb. Vehicle speed: 25 - 62 mph (40 -100 km/h)c. Throttle valve is not fully closedd. 140 sec. or more after starting engine*Output values changes inside ECM onlyOccassionally vehicle misses or hestitates when you accellerate.I suggest checking for a blown afr fuse in the engine compartment block. If ok check the sensors for proper operation. If they stay at 3.3v or if 02 sensors, they flat line replace them.Malfunction with the #1 O2 sensors on both the right and left bank so my recommendation would be to replace both the bank 1,sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1, they are both located in the exhaust manifold.Air fuel sensor is probably the problem; that is what the code po125 is really foRProblem deals with bank 1 only(cly1,3,&5). Look up TSB for air/fuel part #'s on 3.0. Rear update # differ from front(near radiator). If # of both same or rear has RAV #, which can happen at parts,the A/F sensor will cause this kind of problem.



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