Timing chain cover.
It's the part of the transmission that bolts to the engine block.
Nuts & Bolts with something like plastic in between to prevent galvanic corrosion.
the cluth fan bolts right up to the water pump mounted on the block
there can be two ways depending on the year it is either on the back by where the transnission bolts up or there is a spot on the front by the alternator but that will normally tell you if it is a truck block or car block and the place it was manufatured.
Unscrew the oil filter, there are 2 Allen head bolts that hold the adapter to the block. Remove these bolts and the O-ring is on top of the adapter.
You need a bracket made to fit your compressor and truck. There should be unused tapped holes in the block. You may also use some longer bolts at the water pump. See ACKITS.com
If your seals are going out, you are losing all you lubricating fluids for that part of the vehicle. If the leak gets really bad, you will have to have the seals replaced.
The truck is ready to be sealed. You document the seal number on DD Form 626 and seal the doors, yourself. Does this meet DD Form 626, Block 20 requirements for seals?
the only real diff is 454 has a longer through on crank the appearance is all the same is it a car block or truck block a truck block deck height is higher than car block manifolds wont interchange or distributor if its a truck block throw it away it will say truck on the back below where trans bolts most likely a 454 and if u really want to know call the parts stor they will tell uwere to look for casting #. these engine's are no good unless u think u r going to run more than 500 hp or in a truck u r defeating the power to weight ratio concept.
No. You unplug the block heater BEFORE you start the truck.
YOU HAVE TO UNBOLT THE FUEL RAIL, THEN UNBOLT THE FULE INJECTOR SECURING BOLTS( THERE ARE 8 OF THEM) THEN JUST REMOVE THE ENTIRE FUEL RAIL WITH INJECTORS ATTACHED. BE CAREFUL TO REPLACE ALL SEALS,
cut seals and gently remove