Starting from the crankshaft pulley and going clockwise looking at the pulleys, the belt goes thus: Ribbed side against the crankshaft pulley, then flat side against the tensioner pulley, ribbed side around the Power Steering pulley. Then the flat side against the idler pulley running ribbed side around the alternator pulley then down to theair con pulley running ribbed side around that and back to the crankshaft pulley.
The serpentine belt runs from the crankshaft pulley to all the units that need to be turned, alternator, power steering, water pump, etc. There is one pulley that is spring loaded that keeps the correct tension on the belt. That is the tensioner pulley. That can be moved to release the tension on the belt so that the belt can be removed.
Detach all wires. Unbolt alternator. Use a visegrip or the correct sized socket or wrench on the tensioner pully. Relieve the tenson on the belt and slip it off of the alternator. If you can, keep the belt on all of the other pulleys as best as possible. It's a pain to get it back on. Remove alternator, then put everything back together with the new alternator.
A tensioner automatically maintains the correct tension on the accessory drive belt.
The tensioner has a spring in it that provides the correct tension for the belt. If it is too loose, replace the tensioner.
Only older V-belts can be loosened. First loosen the lock bolt. Now, turn the tensioner bolt counter clockwise. When proper tension has been reach, re-tighten the lock bolt. On newer cars with an automatic tensioner, the tension will be correct unless the spring in the tensioner is broken. That would cause the belt to be too loose and the tensioner will need to be replaced.
Re: replacing a 95 alternator (Same for 94?) ---- It's a bit awkward to work in there, espesially on the front of the engine but you are correct, the Alternator is one of the top end components with only two things in the way....The Power steering fluid Reservoir and the Coolant Recovery Bottle need to be dis-mounted and set aside.The Alternator is 'solid mounted' meaning is not on a pivot mount for belt adjustment. The belt is the serpentine, single belt with a separate tensioner.There is one solid mount bracket on the top of the Alternator that gets completely removed, then two more bolts from the lower end of the Alternator to the front of the engine.Wires disconnect, and it's out..Reverse all that and it's back in
Depends if it has a tensioner, or the older type manual adjustment. With a tensioner, put the correct socket on the pulley and depress it by hand until you get the belt changed. the manual style, loosen the bolts holding the slide, push in on the alternator to change belt, reverse to tighten.
It is important to have the belts of a car put in the right direction. This serpentine belt goes around the AC compressor, above the AC tensioner,under the crank pulley, around the power steering, over the alternator pulley, under the idle pulley, around the w/p,and behind the tensioner.ÊÊ
The code means "Charging system voltage too low". The PCM (computer) is not seeing the correct voltage from the alternator. Before you start ripping apart the engine to remove the alternator, check the serpentine belt tension. The tensioner pulley spring is prone to rusting and sticking, which causes the belt to slip on the pulleys driving the alternator, water pump, power steering pump etc. If the belt tension seems good (stiff, with very little give) have the alternator checked at the auto parts store (requires removal). If the belt seems loose, squirt some oil onto the spring of the tensioner pulley, and work it back and forth with a 15mm box end wrench attached to the bolt on the front of the pulley. Clockwise will loosen the belt, then release a few times. Squirt the oil (I use motor oil) into the slit on the top of the tensioner assembly, which is located below and to the left of the alternator, just to the right of the ignition coil. Obvoiusly, you should avoid getting oil on the belt. If the spring doesn't loosen, changing out the tensioner is a snap. Good luck!
The correct spelling is "conditioner."
Your power steering has a lot to do with the way your car handles. A sudden change in steering could be any/all of the following: low fluid, a broken belt (there is a belt that connects the engine's main drive pulley to the power steering, alternator, air conditioning, etc. pulleys) or the power steering pump went bad. Before you take your car to the shop, check the fluid and the belts to make sure they are OK. Note that loose belts are the same as broken belts. The belt MUST have the correct tension in it for it to work properly. In virtually all modern cars, belt tension is set with a spring loaded pulley that should always maintain the correct tension. You should check out the belt tensioner too. If all these check out properly, then the power steering pump is the next most likely culprit. Finally, the power steering rack - the thing that couples the hydraulic pressure from the power-steering pump into the steering mechanism - may need replacement or rebuilding.
Should have an automatic belt tensioner - if tension not correct replace tensioner
The alternator is basically the tensioner on a three cylinder Metro. The bolt that holds the alternator tight to its adjustment bracket must be loosened. You may need to pry on the alternator to slide it so the belt will be loose enough to remove. After you have removed the old belt and put the new one in the correct way, the alternator will definitely need to be pried on to tighten belt, then tighten bolt on adjuster. Just be careful what you pry on.
Purchase a belt and the tensioner ( I like the NAPA part for this) Using the correct wrench remove the old tensioner (located below the alternator between the engine and the fender well) Locate and view the diagram near the water pump. Route the new belt as illustrated reinstall the new tensioner. Start the car, run for two minutes. Shutdown and check your work.
In mine it was 8mm X 20mm & 30mm with a 1.25 thread pitch
What is the correct power steering fluid for a 2006 Mercedes E350 4matic?
you need a serpentine belt tool, you can get one at auto zone or any part store. the alternator is on a pully system with a belt tensioner. place the tool in the tensioner and pull down, this releases the tension and the belt should come off. besure that you have the proper routing diagram and the correct belt for your engine size and year. Also if you don't want to buy s serpentine belt tool, you can use a 15MM wrench.
You don't. If it has stretched too much for the tensioner pulley to handle, you need a new belt. Or, if the tensioner pulley is not applying correct tension, the tensioner pulley must be replaced.
How to replace the tensioner assembly depends on which engine your car has. If it is the 2.5L 4cylinder engine: 1. The tensioner assembly covers a coolant opening in the block, so you need to drain the coolant to point lower than the bottom of the tensioner assembly. 2. Release the tension on the serpentine belt and move the belt out of the way. 3. The tensioner assembly also is the mounting point for the power steering pump. So to change the tensioner assembly first remove the power steering pump. Be careful to avoid power steering fluid leakage. 4. With the power steering pump off, the tensioner assembly is held onto the block with three screws, remove them. 5. At this point the tensioner assembly should simply pull off. It may be stuck to the block with rtv sealant. Install the new tensioner: 1. Clean the old sealant off of the block. Be sure to have an adequate bead of rtv on the block or the tensioner to seal against coolant leaks. The last time I replaced one of these there was no mounting gasket, it was all done with just rtv sealant. 2. Mount the new tensioner and tighten the bolts. 3. Reattach the power steering pump. Check the fluid level, refill if necessary. 4. Reinstall the serpentine belt. 5. Top off coolant as necessary, check for leaks. If your car has the 2.8L V6: 1. Release the tension and remove the serpentine belt. 2. The tensioner assembly is held on by one bolt in the middle of the fixed end. Remove the bolt. 3. Install the new tensioner assembly. be sure it is in the correct rotation. Tighten the bolt. 4. Put the serpentine belt back on. You are done.
The belt tensioner should be located on the passenger side, on the front of the motor. While looking under the hood, from the front of the vehicle it will be on the left hand side below the alternator, follow the belt from the alternator, there is a little pully attached to a short aluminum arm, the arm should have some markings on it. Of course this information is only good if you have the v6 SOHC ( VIN E ). If you do not have this engine, there should be a diagram/label showing the correct belt path. I hope this helps
if there is any play at all in the bearing on the tensioner,it needs replacing. also if you hae the correct new serpentine belt and the tensioner does not keep the belt tight when installed properly,you need new tensioner
alternator belt on any vehicle should be tight enuff that you can push down about 1/8 of and inch on the longest straightest part of belt if engine has a serpentine belt, the belt tensioner will automatically keep belt at correct tension and you don't need to worry bout it unless your rensioner is not working correctly
its push and pull way
You do not tighten a serpentine belt. It has a tensioner that keeps it at the correct tension. If it is loose, either the belt is worn and needs replacing or the tensioner is defective.
There is a belt tensioner (spring loaded pulley that automatically keeps the belt tight) that needs to be temporarily slackened while the now loose belt is slipped off one of the accessories. Sorry, but I can't remember what tool is needed to loosen the belt tensioner. Just opening the hood and observing the tensioner is all that's needed. FYI: if you're having trouble locating the tensioner, just look for the only pulley that appears to drive no accessory, i.e., air conditioner, power steering pump, etc. . Before you do anything either draw a picture of how the belt goes or photograph it. If you don't GOD BLESS YOU. You can look up schematics but most are incorrect. Auto zone had the only correct one for my Rodeo. My belt broke and there was no diagram under the hood.