for the cost of a coil you should replace the whole unit... An a coil costs me about 280 dollars and takes about 2 hours to correctly install and pull a vacume on...I can buy the whole airhandler...with heat pup and electric heat 10kw for 350 and can install it in about 2 and a half hours done correctly with a vacume and using duct mastic ...not foil tape....have a great day and good luck...Donald Unless it is a furnace, then there is no airhandler and the only option is a new coil.
The evap coil can be changed. However, depending on what kind of A/C unit you are talking about, it might make more sense to replace the whole unit. Also, before you invest in the time it takes to do the work of replacing the coil, make sure the rest of the unit is in good condition.
You can save some of it by: Close condenser valve to evap coil - Use guages to prevent exceeded max pressure. Run compressor to store gas in condenser. Cut off evap return line at compresser. Replace evap.
yes....just need to support evap coil and plenum while removing furnace and seal back up once furnace is set into place.
$400 to $900 depending on the evap size, location and access to the unit for the serviceman. A crawl space is not cheap or fun.
I have a 94 and mine was in the lower evaporator coil line actually in the coil at the firewall. It could also be in a fitting on the smaller line coming from your evap. coil.
I got an 06 and the evap can is a black box-shape located by the feul tank...easy to replace.
The coil is inside. Check to see if the filter is dirty as well. To clean the coil you must remove the front panel to the evap coil. If you have a flat coil you must slide the coil out to clean it. If you have an A coil, take off the plate on the front of the coil and you should be able to visually inspect the coil. It is important that you do not mash the dirt into the coil fins.
not very well. a 4 ton system needs about 1600 cfm to provide it's full capacity of cooling. a 3 ton furnace puts out about 1200 cfm. in addition, the evap coil typically attached to the furnace needs to match the tonnage of the outdoor unit. so, the evap coil must be 4 tons. If you currently have a 3 ton furnace and evap coil, the system will not work, and you will most likely ruin the compressor in the outdoor unit.
The evap itself is about $100.
It depends on what failed. Here is a list of possibilities. Bad vacuum switch, damaged EVAP line/canister, open in PCM circuit, open or short in voltage feed circuit to purge solenoid, faulty purge solenoid, restriction in EVAP solenoid, line or canister, corrosion in purge connector, or a bad PCM.
Trouble Code P1457 means:Evaporative emissions EVAP control system leakage So to fix it you need to replace the EVAP Canister
You can remove it and clean the filter inside it or you can replace it.
Check all the copper lines ,the evap coil and condenser coil with soapy water assuming there is still pressure in the system. Also spray the service valves. Watch for bubbles
To replace the evap. can be a rude job. It's behind everything in the dash and on a lot of vehicles you have to dismember the entire dash to get at it. If you have to gut the entire dash you may want to consider replacing the heater core also while you're in there as it's close by.
small evap leak, check the fuel cap, if it is not loose, replace it.
Evap flush is a scam. No need to do it. No manufacturer lists it on their recommended maintenance schedule. Rick I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com
INSPECT VSV FOR VAPOR PRESSURE SENSOR (This is the VSV that is located just above the spare tire, next to the charcoal canister.) You will need to remove the spare tire and some vacuum lines in order to access the vsv valve. The VSV cost from the dealer is ~$50-$100. This is the most common VSV to go out, and is the only stocked VSV valve dealership's stock. The p/n is something like ~2460... . If you are going to make the effort to do the following diagnosis I would recommend to just replace the VSV (since it is kind of a pain to get to). It took me ~2 hours to replace, with no book for the first time. 1. Inspect VSV for open circuit.* Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between the terminals.Resistance: At 20Â°C (68Â°F): 33 - 39 Ohms* If there is no continuity, replace the VSV.2. Inspect VSV for ground.* Using an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between each terminal and the body.* If there is continuity, replace the VSV.3. Inspect VSV operation. View Full Image* Check that the air flows from ports E to P. * Apply battery positive voltage across the terminals.* Check that the air flows from ports E to F.* If operation is not as specified, replace the VSV.3. REINSTALL VSV FOR VAPOR PRESSURE SENSORVSV for EVAP Inspection1. REMOVE VSV for EVAP* Disconnect the connector and 2 EVAP hoses from the VSV for EVAP.* Remove the screw and VSV for EVAP2. INSPECT VSV for EVAP1. Inspect VSV for EVAP for open circuit* Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between the terminals.Resistance: At 20Â°C (68Â°F): 30-34 Ohms* If there is no continuity, replace the VSV for EVAP.2. Inspect VSV for EVAP for ground* Using an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between each terminal and the body.* If there is continuity, replace the VSV for EVAP.3. Inspect VSV for EVAP operation View Full Image* Check that air does not flow from ports E to F. NOTICE: Never apply more than 93 kPa (0.95 kgf/sq.cm, 13.5 psi) of pressure compressed air to the VSV for EVAP. View Full Image* Apply battery positive voltage across the terminals. * Check that air flows from ports E to F.* If operation is not as specified, replace the VSV for EVAP.3. REINSTALL VSV for EVAP
electric defrost, using an electric heater that the air from the evap fans blows over and defrosts the coil, usually time initiated temperature terminated
An EVAP system is the system in the car that retrieves fuel vapors from the gas tank, as well as the rest of the fuel system. The EVAP system will then recycle these vapors so they can be burned in the engine. The EVAP port is a test port where a vacuum can be attached to check for leaks in the EVAP system.
You have to find the cracked hose, loose component, etc and repair/replace it.You have to find the cracked hose, loose component, etc and repair/replace it.
Replace the entire system with a more efficient one. Current EPA guidelines call for a 13 SEER system. Cost will be approx 6500-8500 depending on geographical location, size of system, and current copper size. Disagree. The evap coil may need replacement. I don't know any AC mechs that repair them but if the leak can be found it is not a large problem. 5-6 hundred dollars either way. For the price quoted aove I think you can get a 16-18 seer replacement unit.
Take out entire dash. Remove a/c unit, disasemble unit. Pull out evap. core.
The evap control valve is on the cannister