the tube
Let us look at a cosine wave, described by y = A cos (b). When b = 0 degrees, y = A (<-- peak) When b = 90 degrees, y = 0 (<-- rest position of the wave) When b = 180 degrees, y = -A (<-- trough) When b = 270 degrees, y=0 (<-- rest position again) and so on. If we force A to be a function of time, then the wave becomes a standing wave (see the related link). The peak and trough will reverse their relative position for every half of a period. Regardless, the trough at any time and the rest position is still 90 degrees, or one quarter of a wavelength. ====================================
HANG
i big beef that has one big wave
speed,huge,big
yes because there's a big enough wave all the gravity's force is pushing down and as soon as it hits there is a posibility that it can kill you
Explorers Adventures of the Century - 2013 Big Wave Surfers at Pororoca 1-6 was released on: USA: 24 February 2013
Oahu and Waimea Bay are among the best places to go big wave surfing in Hawaii. Best surfers from all over the world go there to challenge the very big waves.
A wipe out is when a surfer is knocked off their board usually be a big wave or a mistake by the surfer. When this happens usually other surfers will point it out and yell "wipe out" signifying that their fellow surfer took a pretty big hit.
If you fall and the lip lands right on your back with enough force or if you faceplant and your head hits the sand hard enough. It happens more to big wave surfers or surfers who surf fast, powerful, and barreling waves.
Let us look at a cosine wave, described by y = A cos (b). When b = 0 degrees, y = A (<-- peak) When b = 90 degrees, y = 0 (<-- rest position of the wave) When b = 180 degrees, y = -A (<-- trough) When b = 270 degrees, y=0 (<-- rest position again) and so on. If we force A to be a function of time, then the wave becomes a standing wave (see the related link). The peak and trough will reverse their relative position for every half of a period. Regardless, the trough at any time and the rest position is still 90 degrees, or one quarter of a wavelength. ====================================
His three favourite bands mentioned in the documentary were Scratch Acid, Butt hole Surfers, and Big Black
The big stream wave is bigger than a small stream wave.
Trough.
The Big Wave was created in 1948.
when you surf, you see a wave that is going to break soon ( because those have the most strength ) then you paddle the way it is moving. if you paddle fast enough, and you have enough momentum, you can get picked up by the wave when it moves, which is why waves can get so big that you cant catch them, even though they have tons of power, you are not able to get enough momentum. which is why in big wave surfing, when the waves can get up to 100 feet high, people need to be towed onto the waves by a boat.
the middle wave!
the big wave has been gone .