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The easiest way to do this, is to tie into the drain below the lavatory piping as it connects to the vertical pipes in the wall.Cut in the tee for the washer below the tee for the lavatory.Run the 1 1/2" or 2" pipe horisontaly to the washer location,and add a p-trap of the same size.If the p-trap is inside the wall, you will need a solid or glued trap,and if outside the wall it is fine to use a union trap.From the trap, bring the stand pipe up to 40" off the floor,for the washer drain hose.The proper slope of the pipe from the tee fitting to the trap is 1/4" per foot up to the trap, and the maximum length of a 1 1/2" pipe is 6 feet.The maximum length of a 2" pipe is 8 feet.
An S trap is a length of water plumbing pipe used under sinks. The pipe is shaped like an S and prevents the pipe from becoming air locked. An air locked pipe cannot drain.
If you have an existing shower with a 2" line 'stubbed out of cement', it more than likely has a P-trap underground. An easy way to tell is to get a flashlight and look down the pipe; if you can see water standing in the pipe, there is a p-trap. No water, no trap. Double trapping a fixture is not recommended.
well endless unless you make it turn 50 times but because air travels threw the turns with relativity minimum restriction and the upc code book has a maximum length for each size of vent pipe and if you make it one pipe size bigger it then it has no limit of length before exiting out of a building.Venting is based on developed length of pipe and fittings BUT unlike water, friction losses are not calculated in.As long as the vent grades up away from the fixtures trap it serves you will not have a problem and ((where you have a possible condensate situation you may have to install a drip leg (behind) the trap of the fixture))
You just replace it. How depends on what type of pipe. Metal pipe, the trap is usually held on with nuts that connect the trap to the sink and the main pipe. On PVC or plastic, it may be glued in place. Rarely is all the drain glued. The piece going up to the sink should have a slip joint right above the trap with a nut. There should be enough of this tube in the trap to allow you to cut the trap out and glue in another one. Cut the trap off the drain line as close to the trap as possible. The drain should be straight at this point. Glue a new one in and reconnect to the sink. The trap will drop down 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, but there should still be enough pipe to connect. If there is not, an extension is available. Without seeing it, there is no way to give more specific directions.
P-trap is to prevent gasses from passing thought the pipe. For example, in a residential setting, a p-trap is installed on all residential drains in order that sewer gases do not use the pipe as a conduit and enter the home.
The trap is built into the toilet itself, you shouldn't put one in the drain.
3/4 inch would be too small for anything but just liquids. As long as there is a trap under the sink, there shouldn't be a health hazzard. You will have to be a little creative in connecting the sink drain to 3/4 but possible.
toilet should have a vent with in three feet of down pipe, but as long as you are with in the drop range for hori. pipe run you can go as far as you want, but you need that air vent close as you can so that the suction from the toilet water does not pull the rest of water from toilet base(p trap).
You CAN'T have a p-trap under the toilet! The p-trap is built into the toilet!
It doesn't. A grease trap collects grease, a pipe just conveys it there.
bc u do