I believe that would be a 12-gauge wire.
A #12 copper wire with an insulation rated at 90 degree C is rated at 20 amps.
The wire size is not actually the issue but rather the fact that the NEC requires OCD (fuses and circuit breakers) of specific ratings be used for the smaller wire sizes. This is noted as an asterisk in the table dealing with wire ampacities. Despite the fact that this table shows that 12 gauge wire, without correction factors for high ambient temperatures, and derating for bundling can handle 30 amps, for small conductors (gauges 18 to 10) one must refer to 240.4.D (1-7), which includes certain exceptions. This section of the code requires that the smallest conductor one can put on a 20 amp circuit breaker is 12 gauge. So yes, the initial answer is absolutely correct, although under many circumstances 14 gauge wire would likely serve just fine on a 20 amp circuit, but this would be out of code, and therefore considered unsafe.
120 amps The above answer is wrong. A 60 amp breaker is designed to trip at 60 amps be it a single pole, double pole or a triple pole that is used on three phase equipment. The number on the handle of a breaker is the trip capacity.
The circuit should be protected by a 15 A breaker.CLARIFICATION:If the wires and other components are capable of handling 15 amps (14 Ga wire or larger), you can safely protect the circuit with a 15 amp breaker. If the circuit is a non-standard lighting device for something other than typical residential application, you should contact an electrical engineer to help you determine the proper wiring and breakers.
I am assuming by your description that the panel is protected by a 90 amp breaker and the breakers in the panel when added up is 200. This is okay as long as your 90 amp breaker trips on a regular basis. It is typical for the breakers to add up to more than the main breaker under the assumption that you would rarely be running each circuit at its maximum capacity.
1800 watts will require a 20 amp circuit. Kitchen countertop outlets are usually, but not always, 20 amp circuits.
That will draw about 9 amps at 120V. A 15 amp breaker if the circuit conductor is #14 or 20 amp breaker if the circuit conductor is #12. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Hard to define... A four year old child has the strength to physically "make" a typical household circuit breaker, while a teen would be able to "make" a typical industrial circuit breaker. (The latter breaker being physically much larger than the former.) Circuit breakers have their "breaking capacity" rated in AMPS. A typical household breaker is rated at 20, 30 or 50 Amps. Industrial breakers might be rated at 500 amps or a thousand or even more. Hope this helps but if it didn't answer your question, please rephrase it and ask again.
120 amps The above answer is wrong. A 60 amp breaker is designed to trip at 60 amps be it a single pole, double pole or a triple pole that is used on three phase equipment. The number on the handle of a breaker is the trip capacity.
It comes into the home from the electrical grid. It enters the home through a meter base and is fed into the service panel. This panel routes the electricity to each circuit in the home. Each circuit is protected by a breaker designed to trip and shut off power if the circuit becomes overloaded or there is a short in the circuit. A typical home will have a 200 amp service containing 40-42 separate breaker locations and one main breaker that shuts off power to the entire home.
The circuit should be protected by a 15 A breaker.CLARIFICATION:If the wires and other components are capable of handling 15 amps (14 Ga wire or larger), you can safely protect the circuit with a 15 amp breaker. If the circuit is a non-standard lighting device for something other than typical residential application, you should contact an electrical engineer to help you determine the proper wiring and breakers.
Go to your distribution panel and shut off the breaker that you think is the circuit in question. If the circuit becomes de-energized then the breaker you just turned off feeds that circuit. Look on the handle of the breaker and the number you see is the amperage of that circuit. <<>> Determination of a 15 or 20 Ampere circuit is normally indicated by a combination of a 20A breaker and a 20A dedicated outlet. A 15A circuit normally has multiple outlets; not typical in a 20A circuit.
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I am assuming by your description that the panel is protected by a 90 amp breaker and the breakers in the panel when added up is 200. This is okay as long as your 90 amp breaker trips on a regular basis. It is typical for the breakers to add up to more than the main breaker under the assumption that you would rarely be running each circuit at its maximum capacity.
Typical residential electric dryers are on 30 amp circuits, which means 10 gage copper wire. The circuit breaker should match the dryer cord rating, generally 30 amps.
For typical residential house wiring 12 AWG wire is required for a 20 Amp breaker. If you change out the breaker for a 25 A breaker you would have to rewire the circuit with 10 AWG. In that case you could up the breaker to 30 Amps. All outlets and switches should be rated at the same voltage and current as the breaker.
1800 watts will require a 20 amp circuit. Kitchen countertop outlets are usually, but not always, 20 amp circuits.
That will draw about 9 amps at 120V. A 15 amp breaker if the circuit conductor is #14 or 20 amp breaker if the circuit conductor is #12. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
15 amps per circuit 240 Volts total 120 Volts each circuit GFCI=Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter