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The proper torque is 26 Ft-lbs due to the aluminum head.
It is the ring gear and plate that conects your engine and automatic transmission's torque converter.
175 ft/lbs
Did you replace the race? Did you fully pack the wheel bearings with the proper lube? Did you torque them correctly? I suspect you are not doing one of these things. You are doing something wrong or this would not be happening.Did you replace the race? Did you fully pack the wheel bearings with the proper lube? Did you torque them correctly? I suspect you are not doing one of these things. You are doing something wrong or this would not be happening.
Torque settings for main bearings and big end bearings
25 ft lbs, 50 ft lbs, 50 ft lbs, 1/4 turn.
if you mean the large nut that holds the hub on, Haynes repair manual says 185 FT-LBS
The only torque you should be concerned with is the torque it takes to rotate the pinion gear alone, 8-14 inch pounds for old bearings, 16-29 in/lbs. for new bearings. The torque it takes to crush the crush collar (tightening the pinion nut) will be above 140 foot lbs. and this will set your tension on the pinion bearings. If you put a new crush collar in you are going to have to remove axles and carrier to get the proper pre-load on the pinion bearings.
the big end bearings torque down at 55 - 65 Nm
184 pounds of torque
Rod bearings - Step 1 - Torque 15 ft. lbs; Step 2 - Turn 75 Degrees Mail bearings - Step - 1 Torque 37 ft. lbs; Step 2 - Turn 77 Degrees
No, they have torque convertors!