Play it safe and allow 32", Bi-folds come with light frames and will probably only require a 31 1/4 inch opening, but it's a lot easier to "pad out" or "shim" the frame then it is to open it up wider.
I am in process of installing a 24" Jeld Wen bi-fold doors. Since the opening of a bi-fold is finished with milled lumber (I'm using lengths of 1 x 6 milled pine), as opposed to a pre-hung door where the frame serves as the finish trim, and the doors I purchased measure 1/2" less than the stated width (23-1/2"), the rough opening for my door can be sized at a finished width of 24". In the case of my doors, a finish width of 24" will allow 1/4" gap on each side of the door which will allow the doors to open/close without contacting the frame, which is what the manufacturer intended. As to the height, the manufacturer recommends adding 1-1/2" to the height of the door to allow for the track and hardware. Remember, there is also hardware mounted at the bottom of the door. In the case of a 32" x 80" door, which is finished with 1 x 6, I'd make my rough opening no less than 35.5" x 82". I hope this is helpful.
Bi-fold doors need a finished opening of the size they are. A 30" door is undersized and so will fit in a finished 30" opening. If you are going to have 1/2" sheetrock jambs then you should frame the opening 31 1/4". That's 1" for the 2 layers of rock and an extra 1/4" for corner bead and mud. You can also still put half jambs on top of the rock and tuck the door behind them. The jambs cover the gaps on the sides. If you want full jambs then you should go 32" rough opening so you can shim in the jambs to a 30" finished opening. Most bi-folds are 79" tall and you'll need at least 2" more for the pivots and hardware.
Should be + 2 1/2 on the width and height. so 48 +2 1/2"= 50 1/2 x 82 1/2 if you have a 6-8" door.
Add 2 1/2 inches to the height and width. Example - a 32 x 80" door would have a rough opening of 34 1/2 x 82 1/2".
Add 2 1/2" to the width and height.
The rough opening width for a 24" door is 26-1/2" The rough opening height for a 24" door is 26-5/8" Rough openings are 2" wider and 2-1/2" taller than the actual door. This allows room for the door frame and adjustment.
Add 2 1/2" each way.
+ 2 1/2" each way.
38" it's actually 82 3/4" high and 38" wide
28 inch is all you can get in that. Any door needs a minimum of 1 1/2 more than the door size.
Remember 36" is the width of you door slab. If you can measure the door you want to frame in then take the measurement and add 3/4" to it so you can still have room on the side to shim it properly. If you don't have the door but know which one you want, go to the store and the door will normally have the rough opening size on the label.
standard height door (80" tall) 2' 6" wide door. Rough opening width is oversized 2"
36 inches IS the width. . .normally doors come in 24, 28, 32, or 36 inch widths, and either 6'8" or 8' height
Rough opening requirements vary by door manufacturer. It would be best to check with the lumberyard where you plan to purchase the door, but if you've got to get it framed now, make it 38-1/2" wide, and 6'-11" high. You can always build it in later if necessary.
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Add two inches to height and width. So a 36 x 80 door roughed out is 38 x82. This is with doors only. Windows you add 1 inch to the height and width.
For a 30" door, the rough opening would be 32" in width and 82" in height. Check with your local building inspection department just in case a larger door is required.