You'll need to match the primer's characteristics to the project you're working on. The available options are oil, shellac, or latex-based formulas.
There are many good latex primers that will work under oils.
Yes you can, but there are excellent multi base primers available cheaply -Look in Home Depot
Yes, if you use a good primer first. Most primers are universal.
I just finished repainting my 1995 Monaco Dynasty, 36'. It had finish problems, so after sanding, including epoxy primers, basecoat primers, basecoat paint and urethane clear coats, the total 'paint' used was about 12 gallons.
Most primers can be re-coated in an hour or two, It always says in the instructions on the can.
At this piont, the only reason to use oil-based paints and primers is if you're painting over a surface that was previously painted with an oil-based paint - and don't want to remove all of the old paint. Latex paint will not adhere to oil paint. latex paint has fewer VOCs, much easier to clean, etc. Not completely true. Alkyd (oil) primers are still needed for bare plaster in older homes. I still use it for new wood (not composite) trim, too. Many alkyd primers are formulated to take latex topcoats and still provide superior leveling for a better finish with semi-gloss and gloss paints. Never, ever use alkyd primer on bare wallboard. It will ruin the face paper (the gray surface) on the wallboard.
Primers are not water proofers, in fact primers can't be left as the finish coat because they have no durability. If the paint acts as a primer how can you expect the paint to stand up as a true finish coat.
Some of it is...there are acid primers made to etch metal, but color coats are generally basic.
You should use Green colour paint
You should not paint a thermocouple.
mineral spirits.
No.