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Top no-load speed is 3050 rpm.
go to B&S site, they have all your settings and info that you need. 3600 rpm is the norm.
All Briggs engines run at 3000 rpm. Slacking off the 10mm nut on the gov lever adjusted the arm of the gov to which ever speed you whant but be careful not to over do it
Depends on gearing and weight, but they will run around 3600 rpm, if that helps you.
Depending on the model, 3600 - 4000 rpm top no load speed.
on the carb there is a plate that moves when you throttle up and returns to a stop screw when throttled down. This stop screw is the idle adjustment, turn it in until you reach your desired idle rpm.
It is generally caused by improper valve adjustment. But can be caused by excessive RPM. On the 17.5 the intake push rod is most often the one bent or broke. Try idling down the engine prior to turning it off.
From the Briggs & Stratton literature you know torque at a specific RPM you can use math to calculate HP at that RPM. The Engine you are asking about has 11.5 lbs/ft of torque. Multiply 11.5 X 3060 RPM (measurement engine speed) then divide by 5250 (HP Factor). So the engine in question has 6.7 HP at 3060 RPM. This particular engine is normally run at 3600 RPM not 3060 as done in the testing. We must assume a little here but there are two approaches you can take. Substitute the run RPM for the test RPM in the formula and you get 7.5HP (assuming a flat torque curve) another approach, the Test RPM is 85% of the run RPM divide the 6.7HP by .85 and you get 7.8 HP. So What is it really? Without a copy of the torque curve you can't definitely say. But I would wager it would have been rated as an 8 or 8.5 HP in the old days. Remember this is the HP on the engine Shaft with no equipment attached. This would be a good engine for a 24" to 27" two stage snow blower. Torque x RPM / 5250 = HP
It could be that the mixture is a little on the rich side. Close (rotate clockwise) the needle valve on the carburetor about 1/8 of a turn.
You need to either adjust your carburetor richer or leaner while at full throttle.
If your batt is fine it is most likely your valves, or specifically your exhaust valve. these engines have a tiny extra lobe on the exchaust valve cam lobe that acts as a decompression device at low rpm (under about 300 rpm) after the engine starts the pushrod just glides over it and does not matter. to test remove your spark plug and crank the engine. if it cranks fine then it is your valves, if not it is your starter
Carburetor adjustment or if unattainable rebuild the carb. about $20 and 1/2 hr Before you start messing with the carburetor, check the air and fuel filters.