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No reason not to as long as the wall outlet is the correct voltage. most are designed to be plugged into a 110v outlet.
A: For a digital meter to test a diode it must have a scale for resistance for it to work, If not a 1.25 v cell with series limiting resistor will work. If you measure across the diode the reading should be .7 volts reverse the cell polarity then the diode voltage should be 1.25 v .7v is forward voltage 1.25 is reverse voltage.
I have never seen a 100 Volt rated outlet. Usually outlets would be rated for 110 to 120 volts for residential use, or maybe 150 volts. The rating is separate from what voltage the outlet is providing. If your outlet is supplying 100 volts, as measured by an accurate voltmeter, you have some problem in your wiring or a faulty outlet. If there is only 100 volts at the outlet get an electrician to diagnose the problem if you are not completely familiar with home wiring. In general you should never use an outlet that has a voltage or current rating less that the device will consume.
This is strange, check the scale on your meter that you are reading, to make sure that you are on the correct voltage scale. If the reading is correct the suggestion would be to get an electrician to look into why there is such a voltage drop on the outlet. Don't read the voltage across the device, read the voltage from the "hot" wire to ground. That should be 120 volts. If you get that reading then there is a problem with the neutral. It could be loose or have a high resistive condition.
120 Volts and 115 Volts refer to the same thing in the US. Residential electricity is provided at 120 Volts from the utility. High current devices such as motors are often rated at less than the supplied voltage (such as 115 Volts) because it is expected that there is a small amount of voltage drop in the circuit feeding them. The National Electric Code allows a 5% drop in voltage from the electric service so a 5 Volt drop from 120 Volts is OK.
No reason not to as long as the wall outlet is the correct voltage. most are designed to be plugged into a 110v outlet.
As long as the outlet and the fixture are compatible in voltage, amperage and pin configuration, there should be no problem using them together.
Zero, or very close to it. If there is a large neutral current flowing, voltage drop on the neutral leg could cause a volt or so to read between the two. If you read full line voltage, the outlet is wired wrong!
Nominally 120 Volts.
First of all, let's get the terminology correct -there is no such thing as a 'voltage difference'. 'Voltage' is another word for 'potential difference', so 'voltage difference' would mean 'potential difference difference', which doesn't make any sense! So you should be referring to the voltage across the holes of an outlet, not the 'voltage difference' across those holes.The voltage produced by a generator in the power station produces a much greater voltage (up to 30 000 volts) than the voltage that appears across your outlet (120 V in North America or 230 V in Europe). Furthermore the generator's voltage gets increased even higher (hundreds of thousands of volts) before the electricity transmission can take place. Eventually, those high voltages are reduced, using transformers, until it reaches your outlet.
A: For a digital meter to test a diode it must have a scale for resistance for it to work, If not a 1.25 v cell with series limiting resistor will work. If you measure across the diode the reading should be .7 volts reverse the cell polarity then the diode voltage should be 1.25 v .7v is forward voltage 1.25 is reverse voltage.
I have never seen a 100 Volt rated outlet. Usually outlets would be rated for 110 to 120 volts for residential use, or maybe 150 volts. The rating is separate from what voltage the outlet is providing. If your outlet is supplying 100 volts, as measured by an accurate voltmeter, you have some problem in your wiring or a faulty outlet. If there is only 100 volts at the outlet get an electrician to diagnose the problem if you are not completely familiar with home wiring. In general you should never use an outlet that has a voltage or current rating less that the device will consume.
This is strange, check the scale on your meter that you are reading, to make sure that you are on the correct voltage scale. If the reading is correct the suggestion would be to get an electrician to look into why there is such a voltage drop on the outlet. Don't read the voltage across the device, read the voltage from the "hot" wire to ground. That should be 120 volts. If you get that reading then there is a problem with the neutral. It could be loose or have a high resistive condition.
A VOM 'Voltage Meter' measures from a electrical outlet. Any voltage over a 1000 should never be measured directly with it.
The supply voltage in the US and Canada has a nominal value of 120 V, but national standards allow a variation of +/-5%, so the actual voltage could fluctuate between 114 V and 126 V. If you assume a similar variation to the voltage output from your transformer , then the two voltage variations would overlap. In other words, yes, it should be quite safe for your 120-V appliance to operate from a transformer supplying 110 V.
Refrigerant should be removed from the condenser outlet when:
There are two facets to this question: Can it be used safely, and can it be used legally. This applies to foreign fixtures in any country. This is a matter of the rating on the components. You cannot exceede the voltage capacity of the outlet or it will arc internally. The voltage of the circuit feeding the outlet must be the same as the voltage the outlet is designed for. You can use a 220V US NEMA outlet on European 220V safely, but you can't use a US 110V outlet. Also, the overcurrent device on the circuit must be less than or equal to the maximum current rating on the fixture. A 10A or 15A breaker is okay for a 110V 15A US outlet, a 20A breaker is not. If you respect the voltage rating and insure the current rating will not be exceeded, the fixture should be safe. This is another matter entirely. It is a matter of wether or not whatever regulating body that certified the outlet is recognized in your country. You will need to contact your local building inspector / code inforcement person to find out for sure. I wouldn't get my hopes up.