2-3ppm; 4ppm max.
The pool design is not relevant here: it's disinfectant concentration that matters.
1-5 ppm
Cl is an abbreviation for "chlorine" you should check free chlorine and total chlorine for comparison.
my free chlorine level is way to high above ten my pool is 12 by 24 what can i do to fix it
The free chlorine in the pool should be maintained at 0.1 to 3.0 mg/l the Ideal is 2.0 MG/L
Free Chlorine is the Chlorine which is free to do its work in the pool, as opposed to Combined Chlorine which is chlorine that has combined with contaminants and is tied up and ineffective as a sanitizer in the pool. Sometimes you will see it abbreviated as FAC, which stands for Free Available Chlorine.
yes, the algae feeds on the chlorine.. must get rid of algae, then bring up chlorine level
Yes, but you should shock it so the water stays clear (do not go in after shocking until the chlorine is at a safe level 1-3ppm)
Celebrate, for the day has come.
You only need to shock the pool if there is visible algae, or if the ppm of total chlorine is higher than the ppm of free chlorine. Generally, a level of 2-4 ppm chlorine is all you need to keep your pool sanitary. Let the level drop to that on its own, or use sodium thiosulfate to drop it quickly if you notice itchy skin from excessive chlorine.
There is 3 measurements of chlorine in a pool or spa. Total chlorine, combined chlorine, and free available chlorine. Free available chlorine is the good chlorine that is active in the pool killings germs and algae. Combined chlorine is chlorine is basically chlorine that was once active but has killed germs or bacteria and is now inactive in the pool. Total chlorine is free available and combined chlorine added together. If your combined chlorine is higher than free available chlorine then the water needs to be shocked to eliminate the combined chlorine. But be careful here. If you don't reach what's called break point you will only add to the combined chlorine. There are products on the market which will only remove combined chlorine without effecting your free available chlorine if you are unsure about reaching breakpoint. Hope this helps.
Get a new test kit or new test reagents. Total Chlorine is the measure of free and combined chlorine, therefore the free chlorine cannot be higher than the Total Chlorine. You can't put 10 gallons of water in a 5 gallon bucket.
A few days. You will probably be able to use the pool when the level gets to about 5.0 ppm 1) you should know the difference between residual chlorine and Free chlorine 2) Chlorine lost depend on size of you pool and temperature 3) circulation of water , temperature & size of pool will increase chlorine lost
Total Chlorine = Free Chlorine + Combined Chlorineor, put another wayTotal Chlorine - Free Chlorine = Combined ChlorineFree Chlorine is the chlorine that is doing its job.Combined Chlorine is the chlorine that has combined with contaminants such as nitrogen. It is ineffective as a sanitizer and it is noxious.Total Chlorine is the total of these two levels.To eliminate the Combined Chlorine (making all the chlorine in the pool Free Chlorine) you must shock the pool to remove the contaminants. You must reach "Breakpoint Chlorination", which is the addition of chlorine to your pool equivalent to the Combined Chlorine level times 10.example:Total Chlorine = 1.5ppmFree Chlorine = 1.0ppmSo, the Combined Chlorine (the difference between the two tests) is .5ppmBreakpoint chlorination, in this example would be .5ppm X 10 = 5ppm. So, in this example, you would add enough chlorine to your pool to raise the chlorine level up by 5 parts per million.