What size woodruff key is in a 1989 Mazda b2200?

Answer 1

With dial calipers, my closest estimate for the key size on a b2200 1987 to 199? is 3/4 inch in length, and width 190, height 240 to 250, I find that 230 is not tall enough, you may even want to check to be sure you have clearance behind the sprocket, as the shoulder on the crank and the spocket both wear down, Jack near Yelm is the brain on this.

ALSO - Never use a grinder to trim down a woodruff key, it is far to easy to destroy the hardness level of the key, too hard it damages the keyway, too soft it shears too easy, ONLY file with a clean sharp flat file, only put in soft clamp vise so you don't deform the key, finish the edges after filing to be as they were before you started, not sharp.

If a keyway is already damaged, you can clean with alcohol or something and scuff the keyway slot with a fine emery cloth, or a small sharpening stone, oil the key slightly so the putty won't stick to the key (no excess oil that might dirty of the slot when you set the key in), and use something like JB Waterweld to pack in beside the key carefully, making sure the key is properly lined up and seated at the bottom of the keyway, and remove the key after about 2 or 3 minutes, wait another 5 minutes more and gently file off any excess putty, before it hardens, trying to get the perfect contour of the shaft, and assemble the parts after about 1 hour, even though it says 20 minutes on the package for JB WaterWeld, since a crankshaft is colder than the air, it will cure slower than you expect. Make sure you torque the timing sprocket, and use a second person or some way to secure the crank by the flywheel, mark the ring gear with chalk so you can check to see if the sprocket turned any when you torqued it down. You may also want a drop of green locktite on the shaft snout to help keep it from turning later after its all together and running if you do have wear from it wobbling and slipping.

I find some of these STUPID types of crank snouts are never efficient and even from the factory spin and do damage. I recommend torques of 65 foot pounds to 100 foot pounds depending on sizes, and damage. Adding a thin shim of good hard steel not soft junk, to the back of the sprocket to compensate for wear of the back of the sprocket and front shoulder of the crank to keep the sprocket away from the timing case cover and front crank seal.

Get the dam politicians out of designing cars! Look at Toyota, how many people are dead now because of DUMB FUXLING designes and not using REAL PHYSICAL mechanical parts for controls of the vehicles? Nothing dumber than video game controls in something that life depends on!