Friction with the sea bed/shore
Waves break as they approach shore due to interaction with the seafloor. As the water depth decreases near the shore, the base of the wave slows down, causing the wave to steepen and eventually crest. Once the wave crest becomes too unstable, it breaks and crashes onto the shore.
Seaweed
The wave speed decreases as it enters shallower water near the shore due to a decrease in water depth. This causes the waves to slow down and increase in height, ultimately leading to wave breaking as the top of the wave moves faster than the bottom.
Higher near shore. The land is denser than the water so the wave is higher.
turbulence
When a wave reaches an irregular shoreline, the wave front will refract, causing it to bend around the contours of the shoreline. This refraction occurs because the shallow water near the shore slows down the part of the wave closer to the shore, causing the wave front to bend.
Waves typically grow larger as they approach the shore due to the phenomenon of wave shoaling. As waves move into shallower water near the shore, the circular motion of the water encounters resistance from the ocean bottom, causing the wave height to increase. This increase in wave height is referred to as wave shoaling.
Yes, an earthquake on the ocean floor can displace large amounts of water, causing a tsunami. As the tsunami wave approaches shallow water near the shore, it slows down and the height of the wave can increase significantly, resulting in a destructive surge of water reaching the coast.
When a wave approaches land, it slows down because of the shallower water depth. This causes the wavelength to decrease and the wave height to increase, eventually leading to the wave breaking near the shore.
The proper term used for a shallow zone near a shore is a littoral zone. This zone is the shallow waters between the land and the open water areas.
its in the beach in a messange-bottle on the shore near the water.
its in the beach in a messange-bottle on the shore near the water.