Check your TPS TPS = throttle position system
Replace the PCV valve. If that does not cure the problem check the EGR valve.
144 hp @3200 rpm + 280 ft. lb. torque @1500rpm source: Chilton Book Company (book 6739)
Could be the EGR valve not opening and causing the engine to detonate/ping due to excessive engine combustion chamber temperature or knock sensor not retarding timing. And could be engine bearings.
We have that combination in a daycab 357 pete. Hauling grain at 88,000 (were allowed 10% during harvest season) we get 5.5-6mpg. That's bouncing empty half of them miles though. 1500rpm at 65mph.
230 ci-30 to 45 @1500rpm =283 ci-40 psi min =327 ci-40 @ 2000=409ci-min 50lbs @ 2000 rpm.as per 1963 gm manual
What kind of wound mechine is this...if it is wave wound mechine than Eg:357
Misfiring and idle at 1500. sounds like a TPS isn't adjust correctly. look on this site for a write up to fix your TPS http://fc3spro.com/main.html and to correct your Idle on top of the intake manifold there is a screw use a flat head and turn it down. that will adjust your idle if your TPS is correctly adjusted.
to do this, you need to enter the code, then whilst the engine is running, you need to remove the fuse marked BIC/Ilum, turn the engine off and on and then replace it, the drawback with this, is that the engine management warning light will flash when the engine is running at below 1500rpm, also the immobilizer light will flash, this can be turned off by holding in the central locking button for a few seconds.
Have system scanned if check engine light is on. I would check for vacuum leak and if none were found do a tune-up if due. May need a fuel system check ,,,,fuel regulator, fuel injector, fuel filter. Could be throttle position sensor or crankshaft position sensor. Could be a computer problem.
yes it could be that but i had the same problem on mine too and it was a leak in my intake manifold gasket, it only costs about 10 on eBay and replacement is somehow difficult but it can be done, after that, everything was working awesome!!
that fault can come from variety of location some that relate to the intake airflow, verify that all the vacuum hose's have vacuum.EGR VacuumTurbo waste-gate Vacuum (specially if you do not hear the whistle of the Turbo at about 1500rpm)In addition I'll recommend to clean the intake unit, I found in mine fair bit of sludge and just by cleaning it there was noticeable improvement in the way that the car pull.Hope it helps
Unless that is an extremely radical 350 it shouldn't be idling at 1500 rpm in the first place. It should idle around 800 rpm and drop maybe a couple hundred when put in gear. If you are having to idle it at 1500 to keep it running you do have other problems. Could be timing, vacuum leaks, or a poorly adjusted carb. I'd start with those first.
First, lets talk a little bit a bout what does an EGR system do. The EGR valve either electric or mechanic is a component part of the emission system. It was designed to let back into the running engine a very small portion of burnt gases in order to decrese the posibilities of Nitrus Oxide formation (NOX). The PCM sends a signal to the EGR valve to open it over 1500RPM so the engine wont feel the burnt gas and fail. If the gas enters the engine below 1500RPM, the engine will fail and hesitate because a small portion or burnt gases will enter the intake manifold and contaminate the air/fuel mixture and a very nasty smell will come out of the exaust pipe do to impropper combustion. Also, the manifold absolute preasure will be nearly the same as that of the ambient and would probbaly make the engine to stall. If the EGR is stuck closed, no symptoms would be felt as from the engine funtionability perspective but if we talk about an electric EGR valve, the CHECK light will turn on and the PCM will create a DTC. Hope this helps. Good luck
If you have a dwell tach, the proper dwell is 50 degrees plus or minus two at 1500rpm. If you're too cheap to buy a dwell tach, set it at 0.016" and call it good. On my car, 50 degrees of dwell equals .009" gap. Dwell is the length of time, in degrees of crankshaft rotation, the points are open. Too little dwell and you're not getting spark long enough to properly burn the fuel. Too much dwell and you're just screwing up your plugs for no reason.
Rotors used in Synchronous alternators can be classified into 1)Salient and 2)Non-Salient Pole Rotors. Salient pole rotors are used in application with speeds from 100 to 1500rpm. They are alternative known as "projected pole" type of rotors. The poles mounted on the rotor are made of laminations made of steel. The poles are connected to the rotor shaft by means of dovetail joints. Each pole has a pole shoe around which the winding is wound. The salient pole rotor is generally used in applications where the prime mover is a hydel turbine or a combustion engine which have low or medium speeds. Salient pole rotors usually contain damper windings to prevent rotor oscillations during operation. Non-salient pole rotors are generally used in application which operate at higher speeds, 1500rpm and above. The prime movers in these applications are generally gas or steam turbines. These are sometimes known as "drum rotors". The rotor is a cylinder made of solid forged steel. The slots on which the windings are fixed are milled on the rotor. The number of poles is usually 2 or 4 in number. Since these rotors are cylindrical, the windage loss is reduced. The noise produced is also less. These rotors have higher axial length. These rotors do not need damper windings.
f=P*N/120 f=Frequency in Hz P= No. of Poles N=Rotor Speed in Revolution per minute(rpm) for P=4 and N=3600, f comes out to be 120 Hz. So frequency of voltage produced is 120 Hz. But this is not practical. Generally 4-Pole generator has N=1500rpm(for 50 Hz) or 1800rpm for 60 Hz. Two pole generator can have N=3600rpm(f=60Hz). The most practical situation is generator having N=3600Hz with 2 Poles. Hope It will be helpful!!!
. Ford Focus Zx3 2002 model yearThis is absolutely correct, in that is behind the right fender. However, removing the tire makes this process much easier and you only need to pull back the plastic splash guard that is at the front of the tire towards the bumper. The low side valve it is on top of the accumulator. Connect your valve attachment then start your car with the AC on maximum while filling the r134 system. The entire process takes between 5 and 15 minutes depending on the amount of 134 required. It also helps to have someone hold the engine ide up slightly, to about 1500rpm's while refilling.AnswerIt is behind the right front fender spray skirt.
By using a simple formulae: f=np/60 where f= frequency, n is the number of pair of poles and 60 is in seconds that motor is turning. So a 4 pole motor with a frequency of 50 hertz will run at 1500 rpm. By manupilating the formulae: n= 50 multiplied by 60 devided by 2 therefore n= 1500rpm. The formula 120xFrequency/poles gives synchronous speed not actual shaft RPM. Induction motors must run at a certain % slip to obtain torque, so a 4 pole motor running at 50hz would be 120x50/4 = 1500 rpm, at 4% slip (operating speed) actual shaft RPM or rated speed would be 1440 RPM.
The cyclic fluctuation of your idle from 700rpm to 1500rpm is caused by a vacuum leak. This leak is causing a very high idle. The ECU has a fuel cut-off feature that temporarily cuts the fuel supply if the rpm exceeds about 1800rpm while the engine is at closed throttle. The idle drops as the fuel is cut off, but rises again when fuel is restored, causing the cyclic fluctuation. The solution is to find the vacuum leak. The most common cause of this on the XJ-S is the AAV. (Auxiliary Air Valve) This is the valve that lets in extra air during warmup, then slowly closes off as the engine gets up to operating temperature. The AAV is in the metal housing below the short 90 degree hose at the back of the driver side intake manifold. The AAV can stick open. If the car's idle fluctuates only after warmup, it is likely the AAV. If the idle fluctuates immediately on cold start-up, it is more likely a different air leak. To track down a vacuum (air) leak on the Jaguar V-12, warm up the engine, shut it off, then remove the driver side air filter cover and air filter. Restart the car and cover the AAV air intake hole with something large enough to plug the hole, but NOT something that could be sucked in. The AAV hole is smaller and in front of the throttle body opening. If the idle drops down and the fluctuation stops, the AAV is the problem. If not, listen for a hissing and track down the vacuum leak. Brittle, broken vacuum hoses are a common cause. Good luck. Tony Evans, Omaha NE
It depends on the engine, but if I had a nine-speed in my truck I'd shift up at 1500rpm and down at 1100. But I gotta tell you, I've got a Fuller UltraShift two-pedal automatic and I will NEVER go back to a manual. If you are driving through Port Elizabeth, New Jersey, or downtown Chicago, just to name two of the more entertaining places to take 73 feet of rolling death, and you are trying to get to your destination without bending your truck, running over someone's car, or killing anyone, not having the transmission be on the list of things you need to worry about is really comforting.
When you get a new battery,you should fully charge it before use,about 12hrs of charging with a 10 amp charger.A battery with cold electrolyte will not perform as well as a battery at say 16 deg cel,you dont say how far "down" your battery is. Test the output from your charging system on the vehicle it should be around 13.8-14v at 1500rpm with no electrical load (ie lights etc) if lower suspect a fault in the charging system,also check to ensure there are no current drains (excessive ones) when the vehicle is switched off,there will be a few hundred milliamps for the clock etc but anymore than an amp or so find the fault,when some alternators or their controllers die (or are diying) they can cause a fairly heavy drain from the battery as they either dont turn the alternator off or they have an internal short.
It's hard to tell for sure without more detail but I just recently spent days hunting down a problem with the following symptoms; - Idled around 1500RPM in Park - Would turn over but not catch when the engine was hot - Would Idle around 1300RPM at intersections and died when the engine was hot - The power steering and Brakes both caused a dramatic change in RPM when in operation After changing everything from the Idle Air Control Valve to the Throttle Position Sensor to the Mass Airflow Sensor I stumbled across an article that talked about Ignition coils on the the 90's Thunderbird is rather exposed to the elements and corrodes easily. When this happens it causes the Ignition coil to have trouble producing a strong spark when the engine got hot. I replaced the Ignition Coil with a new one and havn't had ANY of the above mentioned symptoms since. P.S. An easy check is to buy a spark plug tester and take a look at the color of the spark you get off your ignition coil, a faint blue spark suggests it may just barely have enough juice to fire as opposed to healthy vibrant yellow or deep blue spark.
Either a Volvo with the D16 engine, or a shortnose conventional with a Cummins ISX engine. What gets you the best economy is having enough engine to deal with the problem. Trucking companies that put 400hp engines in their trucks force their drivers to turn 1500rpm to go fast enough to meet their schedules. Trucking companies that put 500hp engines in their trucks enable their drivers to run a few hundred RPM lower, which saves fuel. My company has a video starring an owner-operator who routinely gets 10.5mpg in his tractor-trailer. Needless to say, it's all about getting better fuel economy. He has great tips, but he isn't really admitting he's got a truck with a 600hp Cat in it. He just barely has to crack the throttle on that truck to turn 1200rpm, and he specified the rear end gearing so he can do 55mph at 1200. This still doesn't change the fact the guy's the king of fuel economy and a hero to one and all. It does show that your trucking company can do a lot to help you get good fuel economy, and good companies are starting to realize this-it doesn't cost much more to get a big-enough engine, and it doesn't cost ANY more to put the right gear in it.
Very simple. First, know the transmission pattern. * Up and to the left is reverse. * Down to the left is 1st (splitter down) or 5th (splitter up) * Up to the middle is 2nd (splitter down) or 6th (splitter up) * Down to the middle is 3rd (splitter down) or 7th (splitter up) * Up to the right is 4th (splitter down) or 8th (splitter up) * Down to the right with the splitter up is 9th The splitter is the switch on the front of the shift knob. Upshifting: You normally start in 4th. Let out the clutch and start accelerating. Go ahead and flip the splitter up while it's in gear. When you get the truck up to 1700rpm, take your foot off the gas, press the clutch in about an inch and a half and shift to neutral. Release the clutch, press it in again and shift to 5th. Release the clutch and step on the gas. Do this until you are all the way in 9th. (A 10-speed transmission is shifted the same way, but the pattern is 1/6, 2/7, 3/8, 4/9 and 5/10.) Don't push the clutch down too far because on a big truck's transmission there's a "clutch brake" that kicks in if you push the clutch in too far. You can also "float" the gears--shift without the clutch. This takes practice. When I upshift a truck with a manual transmission I don't watch the tach. I listen to the engine. When it sounds about right, I let off the gas and double-clutch it to the next gear. It goes right in, no grinding at all. (My assigned truck has a 10-speed automatic. I "shift" it by choosing the highest gear I want to use then stepping on the gas.) Downshifting: Let the engine slow to 1100rpm. Press the clutch a little way in and put the truck in neutral. Rev the engine to 1500rpm and put the clutch in, then shift to the next lower gear. If you want to "double down"--say, 7th to 5th--slow to 1000rpm, clutch to neutral, rev to 1600rpm and clutch to two gears down.